Using 3D printers to produce molds for Investment Casting

I'm just guessing here, but Stoner was pretty good at using aluminium and making sure that the receiver doesn't receive too much stress. Vid related is a shotgun which is mostly made of aluminium, including the barrel. Now, I'm rather sure it means you could use casting too, just not for the pressure bearing parts. But then again, you can use literal sheet metal to make 90% of a firearm, as long as you design it with that in mind.

Indeed, the only way to make any part of a firearm is to file it out from a block of steel with your own hands. Bathing in a mixture of tar and gunpowder then igniting yourself is safer than using these newfangled ideas.

Well there's nothing wrong with 3D printing and all that, except but for the eternal curse of rifled barrels and chambers.

I guess you could work around that problem by making a cnc milling machine. There are plans available online, and you would have order all manner of other components you would not be able to create, but it would solve that particular problem.

I appreciate the feedback. While there are more simple and effective methods for making gun parts, such as Die Casting, the issue is not to mass produce parts, but how to gain access to guns when your prohibited from owning one. That is to say, not being able to buy guns at a local retailer because you've defended yourself (The actual or threatened use of a firearm). At the very least you should be allowed to make and mail the wax structures so people can make investment casts of them. But if this requires a customer to melt and pour the metal themselves, their success rate may be too low for this to be a viable option.

What's important is how many times a gun can be fired without exploding. Any commercial firearms that involve casting probably involve the Hot Isostatic Pressing (HIP) method, which is similar to Forge parts as they both apply pressure to the hot metal. youtube.com/watch?v=BsnzgsEXT_A What I need to know is will a gun barrel or chamber explode if they're made by investment casting. If the result is safe, then it removes the need to bore out the barrel with a drill. You'd need only to grind off the edges where the metal flowed in and assemble the parts.

Attached: Screenshot-2018-6-16 AIP HIP The industry innovator in hot and cold isostatic presses.png (960x368, 405.46K)

I expect a poorly made barrel would wear out and become innacurate rather than exploding.
Heat would worsen the wear if you fire too rapidly.

MFW I have a bridgeport mill in pieces in my workshop.
Each part needs 3 men to lift it.

Fun fact: (8,050 kg/m3) / (1.225 kg/m3) = 6571.428571429 bars of air pressure is equal to the density of steel. The 7,000 bars in the HIP chamber would make the steel float on air if it wasn't tied down! The Mariana Trench (The deepest part of the ocean) is 1,086 bars.

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What would a diamond made by a human corpse look like?

1000bar is the density of rubber, that crab has to be pretty strong.

This. Literally. It's a synthetic diamond made out of a cremated humans (or a pets) remains. They're called lifegems or something.

Attached: diamonds.jpg (301x255, 16.72K)

Can I crush them in my hand to regain health?

Would the carbon bonds be able to keep it together against the internal pressure from ice VI if it was 60% water?

That's not the issue, the issue is how the carbon atoms deposit themselves on the seed crystal. Water would definitely fuck that up, even a few molecules of nitrogen turn the damn thing yellow.

Tolerances on 3D printers are shit. Why not just make the molds from an actual gun in burgeristan or something? Can't you do that? Or just use CNC mills. Regardless, the australian government didn't ban guns by accident, they did it on purpose. As soon as this casting business gets going they will ban it too. Even if they don't, casting metal requires substantial infrastructure, not only will that exclude most of the population, but people who have the ability to do it will be easy to monitor and catch.

I'm sure that Australia, like any country, has an active black market in guns smuggled in or stolen from legitimate domestic owners.

Why not just keep a goat then instead of all this complicated business? The problem is also not having the gun, but actually using it legally. What good is an illegal gun if defending your life with it will get you thrown in jail? Or are you trying to get people to rebel? If they didn't rebel back when they had guns, I doubt they'll rebel now during peak bread and circus.

kek, you want customers of your illicit enterprise to provide incriminating photographic evidence of themselves?

Exactly the same as any other diamond.

It's a diamond, so probably not.

Just like almost every other gem, diamonds come in a variety of colors/hues usually depending on the nature of their impurities.

Day 10

A list of parts in preparation for making a foundry: drive.google.com/file/d/1P2KXdH2s9iyapWRKIvzHE4MnAxUrbhof/view?usp=sharing

Was looking for a commercial Venturi Burner, but it might be better to make the Neck pipe and Nozzle head myself and attach a Blowpipe to it.

Attached: 3&Dbot Mobile 3D Printer.gif (500x333, 3.6M)

strayastrelok, I feel your pain brother. I have investigated the possibilities of home made firearms from scratch, and I have discovered what will not work, as well as a possible solution that I am developing that might work.

First what needs to be understood is the most difficult part of any firearm: the barrel. The barrel receives the most heat and pressure out of any part of the gun. Furthermore barrels are the most difficult part of the firearm to manufacture. While many anons think that creating barrels is easy, because creating rifling is easy, they mistakenly skip the most difficult part of the process, which is drilling the hole to make the barrel. Using a standard twist drill will NOT create a barrel. Instead the drill will walk (meaning the tip will begin to wander toward the side) as soon as it gets deeper into the material than 3x the diameter. Drilling barrels is difficult because it normally requires high pressure coolant pumping and a specialized gun drill to cut a straight hole. Your options for barrels are as follows:
A. taking an existing barrel and re-purposing it
B. using an existing steel tube or pipe as a barrel
C. casting a barrel
D. drilling a hole through a steel rod to make a new barrel

Let us examine what the limitations are of each of these options.
Barrels can be easily regulated. Any existing barrel manufacturer can easily be pressured by the government into selling their product only to the appropriate agencies, cutting you off from a supply.

While these tubes are easy to acquire and inexpensive, the problem is that their pre-existing sizes and limited materials available cut down your choices for firearms. You are effectively limited to shotguns or pistols.

If you were to cast a barrel, you would inevitably end up with impurities in it. This is because any sort of backyard means of heating steel to a liquid state for pouring would introduce extra carbon and oxygen into it. Both would weaken the steel, potentially leading to premature failure.

Conventionally, this is expensive. You would first need a long enough lathe in order to set up your operation, then you would need to add a high pressure coolant setup. Depending on how long a barrel you want, you are looking at a cost of about $10,000 for tooling.

However, I believe there is an alternative method. EDM (Electrical Discharge Machining) is a means of cutting metal by using sparks. It can be used to cut with HIGH PRECISION through any material with little vibration. I am personally working on a project to make a barrel by creating an EDM gun drill. I plan to do this by creating a pulse EDM machine (look up Ben Flemming, he designed his own) and connecting it to a RAMPS 1.4 3d printer board, and programming it to drill the hole.

EDM is a slow process, and in the production business, speed is king, even if it costs more in tooling. Furthermore EDM isn't a well known process.
I work full time and go to school, and I suck at electronics. Unfortunately the schematic for Fleming's EDM machine is not exactly easy for newbies to understand, so it will be some time before I have a strong enough grasp of what needs to be modified to make it compatible with the other components I plan to merge with it. If any streloks know electronics and want to help, I can provide contact info.

Which should tell you that "exactly the same as any other diamond" implies possible hue variation. Corpse diamonds are a meme, there's nothing distinguishing them from other diamonds, they all look the same. It's just a piece of carbon, not some fucking eldritch mana crystal.

I greatly appreciate the time you took to write this. This might help in your quest.

EDM: An electrically conductive metal is eroded using an electrical arc of plasma. The work-piece is grounded with a clamp to make it part of the same electric circuit that the electrode is part of. A dielectric oil (Doesn't conduct electricity) fills the gap between the electrode and metal. When the oil cannot resist the high AC voltage, the electrons jump from the electrode to the workpiece in the form of plasma which erodes both the metal and the electrode. todaysmachiningworld.com/magazine/how-it-works-wire-edm/ Though similar to Arc Welding, the electrode must not touch the workpiece. EDM also uses a higher frequency AC than in Arc Welding.

Flushing is considered the most important factor in EDM. This E-book describes all the methods used to remove eroded particles from a cavity: reliableedm.com/Complete EDM Handbook/Complete EDM Handbook_12.pdf

The electrodes used in SMAW (Stick) welding melt into the joint, becoming part of the weld. These are called Consumable Electrodes. There are only two types of electrodes that do not melt and they are both used in TIG welding. One these non-consumable electrodes are made of Carbon Graphite (May be bare or have a coating of Copper) which are used in Air Carbon Arc Cutting which has the eroded material blown away by compressed air. The second type is Tungsten and its various alloys. Tungsten containing 0.3% or 0.5% Zirconium are good for AC, but Tungsten containing 1% or 2% Thorium are even better as they last longer and can be used with higher Alternating Current.

You should be able to use a Carbon electrode in a SMAW handle (Sometimes just a clamp) and the inverter that comes with it. If you have a Lathe or very tall Drill Press, it might be possible to isolate the rod from both the Tailstock Quill (From which the barrel is held) and Spindles Chuck (Normally holds the drill bit, but in this case the Carbon electrode) by using a thick rubber sleeve. This could be made by melting or Wedging rubber pieces of the exact same thickness around the Carbon electrode and metal rod to be bored. This is just so you can hold the parts in place, the electricity is what’s doing the drilling. The Dielectric fluid (Mineral Oil or the pro stuff easternpetroleum.in/edm_oil.html ) is squirted into the cavity. Make sure it doesn't enter the electrics of the Lathe!!!

You next option is the RepRap Kossel reprap.org/wiki/Kossel

High Voltage electricity is scary stuff though. You can find out more about how E-feilds work here on Page 5 (Although it hasn't been proof-read yet): drive.google.com/file/d/1P2KXdH2s9iyapWRKIvzHE4MnAxUrbhof/view?usp=sharing

instructables.com/id/EDM-Electrical-Discharge-Machining/

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Something that you ought to beware of, is that the plasma creates an EMP that interferes with electronics. If this becomes a problem for the Arduino, you can build your own Faraday Cage ibloga.blogspot.com/2010/02/how-to-protect-your-electronics-from.html

30 Gauge (0.25mm | 0.01") Copper or Brass wire is typically used in EDM, which can take 0.142 Ampere at what I'm assuming is 270 kHz AC. powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm If your using a Drill Press, a Stepper Motor with a Reducing Gearbox (Say 100:1) could turn the handle via a Timing Belt (Toothed belt strap that fits onto a gear). You could glue a Gear onto the Handle.

Adafruit Motor Shield V2 for Arduino: learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-motor-shield-v2-for-arduino
.pdf instructions (Page 32): cdn-learn.adafruit.com/downloads/pdf/adafruit-motor-shield-v2-for-arduino.pdf
Arduino Stepper Library: arduino.cc/en/Reference/Stepper

I appreciate the enthusiastic response OP, but in my case the issue comes from a lack of education regarding electrical components and making circuits. I'm currently trying to reverse engineer the circuit from the book in my notes to make sure I'm taking the components I need without the ones I don't, as well as making the connections I need to the arduino to allow it to control the machine.

I've linked the board stuffing instructions from Fleming's Pulse EDM board that he sells on his site. Take a look at the schematic on page 4. While the book goes into some detail on what each of the sub circuits are in the schematic (power, pulse timer, dither timer, motor) the exact details are never explained on what each individual component does, so I have to figure out stuff like, what is part of the dither circuit that I'm not going to add, that I need to remove.

My general plan is to connect the window comparator circuit via a voltage divider to one of the arduino sensor pins, as well as replace the buzzer with a 5v pin from the arduino and a sensor pin for edge finding. I also want to change some of the switches to relays/fets for the arduino to control automatically, but I don't know enough about what components to use in each case. I also have to look at what pins are available to use and whether I have to look at using a different board.

Everything you said is true, but this is an incredibly pessimistic estimate. If I was buying a brand new toolroom lathe and all the accessories and the gun drill maybe I could spend that much.

Going off of Sterling Gun Drill list prices, the drill itself and the tool holder are going to run you about three hundred bucks. The worst thing is the coolant pump, they're trying to sell a setup that runs off of shop air, but I don't see any reason why a conventional pump of suitable pressure and flow wouldn't do the same job. And engine lathes can be had surplus for a couple grand, depending on specifications.

defdist.org/
defcad.com/
The website doesn't seem to load. All it does is ask you to subscribe.

Download the files

3dsha.re/product/gun-8-mm-printable/?id=16114

grabcad.com/library/liberator-guns-full-1#!

theproxybay.net/?load=/torrent/8061276/3D_gun_print_DEFCAD_MEGA_PACK_v3_with_updates_zip

Note: It sounds like there are files available on the DarkWeb.

The (((media))) wouldn't have reported on these things if they actually worked. I think they are way too unreliable due to the material, although I've never tried one.

Yeah, guns are a joke because it took two hundred years for the US to go from flintlocks to M16s.

we're up to 4.8 now.

btw I'm the user who is making the EDM machine. I wanted to provide an update on that project. I found someone who actually designs circuits for a living, and he's willing to help redesign the power circuits and such to be both simpler as well as be controlled by the 3d printer board I'm planning to use. I'll continue to post as progress continues.

Do you havea link to the magnet?

Not quite. The crab is able to survive at that pressure by keeping the fluid pressure inside its body at the same pressure as outside.

A glass bottle filled with air would be crushed at that depth. A glass bottle that remained open as it descended would remain intact because the pressure inside and outside would be equal.

How well would 3d printing work for sten gun jigs?

Acrylic and polyurethane (Urethane) coatings are food safe once cured, provided they do not contain latex, lead, mercury, solvents, phosphates, VOC’s, or any synthetic preservatives. The Epoxies in UV curable Photopolymer resins continue to react after light exposure, so a 3D printed part will need to be coated with an Acrylic or Urethane based Enamel.

I'm looking for a good non-Epoxy Enamel in Australia to coat the post-cured parts in. This for action figures and custom parts.

Do you think there's a market for 3D printed novelty items?

kaiyodo.co.jp/items/revoltech/kyd-ay008/
kaiyodo.co.jp/items/revoltech/kyd-ay003/
kaiyodo.co.jp/items/revoltech/kyd-ay002/

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The gov isn't worried about people running around with plastic guns. It is simply easier and cheaper to buy a black market gun for illicit activities. The reason they don't want these files flying around is that these same blueprints can be used by anyone with a shop mill to manufacture their own METAL firearms.

It is the same old song they have been singing for decades…an armed population is a dangerous population which can not be dominated, so lets take their *ability* to arm themselves away while leaving their *right* to do so intact.

Here's an update on the progress, shown within this document.

I've opted to buy the Peopoly Moai Printer for $2,356 AUD

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A beginners guide to 3D printing (Updated)

drive.google.com/file/d/1cBNCe0IurScCaK2_Q50yI3zmaC3m3zAr/view?usp=sharing

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Can you download it and directly link it here?

There are plenty of things that are bad here.
The prices on printers are huge. Very very big for shitty models like a prusa. Best printer construction is the one that has outer shape of a cube, it offers best rigidity and is easy to install dust covers you'll want. Unless you're a copyfag you'd better off getting a model from chinks instead of """official"""Tm producer """in the US""". Something like these
aliexpress.com/item/Tronxy-3D-X5S-400-400-400-400/32843784413.html
aliexpress.com/item/2018-Flyingbear-P905X-DIY-3d/32831986294.html
aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-large-size-220-220-305mm-metal-fuselage-High-Quality-Precision-DIY-3D-printer-kit/32812528331.html
Also HyperCube is a DIY one that's really good.
You're even better off building one yourself by buying only extruder/motors/heatbed/arduino/endstops/motor drivers/etc and making the frame yourself using bought at your local hardware store/stolen/found in a trashcan metal rods, big square pieces of wood, square aluminum stick thingies like in one of those printers and such. Bearings can be bought either locally or also ordered in 1 package from aliexpress. This way it'll be not only overbuilt but may be better fitted and have greater dimensions than a bought one. Also, easier modifications than a commerical one, especially something with a plastic hull all over it like in makerbot. There are plenty of resources about building one yourself with even complete projects like reprap and they have done all the projecting, testing and stuff so you just buy stuff in a hardware store by its name even if you don't know what is it and then just follow simple steps with photos, videos on youtube and forums to help you, all for ~400$(dunno but real cheap, 700$ is a steal).
SLA is very detailed and a bit faster but is not as tough as PLA or ABS and so is almost completely useless for gunsmithing even the simplest parts. Also, these are more expensive, proprietary and quite hard to modify or alter construction.
FDM not only has plenty of filaments like nylon, PLA, ABS and carbon fiber something but its filament can be produced without much effort out of plasic bottles, junk and such, as well as used or failed prints, though it's a bit too much for an average person, but for a garage wizard it's pretty good inexpensive and useful project. Also, there is a technology of laying glass or carbon fiber between nylon layers that is proprietary now but is VERY promising because of how tough and strong these parts are. So we'll be left with heat management problem but it's a huge step towards the first politician shot dead with a fully 3d printed gun
ABS can also be gassed with acetone to get nice shiny surface, see more on youtube.
I'll leave stuff like food safe finish and painting to those who were more interested in it rather than weaponizing it. Still, too much for the light/laser 3d printing thing and too little info on the most useful, practical and cheap thing.
Ask on Zig Forums about software, i dunno.
Casting is also unnecessary for this, unless it's metal casting but it has more to do with metal working than 3d printing. It can be done but i only know this much.
Also, defcad.com deserves some attention, even if Cody got fucked.

I've never seen a 3d printer thread on Zig Forums that board isn't good for much. There's >>>/fab/ dedicated to 3d printing but it's been dead for awhile. Another board that's active and has some 3d printing discussion is >>>/robowaifu/ but the users there aren't that technically competent and are focused on making sex robots.

There's quite a few interesting attachments and accessories you can print out for firearms on Thingiverse. I was thinking of posting a thread here after getting or making my own printer about the interesting weapons related things on there, repeating compound crossbows, sling shots, training knives, silencers, DIY airsoft guns, gas masks and so on.
thingiverse.com/groups/guncad/things/newest/page:1

The best way I see to make a gun with a 3d printer is to print out a plastic jig and use a drill and router to mill out the form from a solid block of metal by hand as is done now with those 80% lower receiver kits. And I have to agree that building your own 3d printer seems to be the most cost effective way of going about it. After you build it you can use it to make more of your own tools like CNC mills which would help automate producing gun parts.

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Well, Zig Forums isn't good for anything if only for the reason it's such a mess that you'll find a good answer in the pile of bullshit only if you already are knowledgeable enough to answer it yourself, but they might give a useful tip once in a while, especially since it's less about 3d printing and more about 3d modelling software, especially open source(since you don't want special markings on your prints/data sent to 3rd party/other shit) so even freetards might point out something useful. It's just i really don't know shit about 3d software because all i did was make a cube in openscad once and haven't recalled anything on topic, unlike making the thing.

I've seen some handgun frames 3d printed as well, it might help even without making jigs and milling stuff. 3d printers are great for entry-level projects and really help expand onto more serious projects as well as staying away from woodworking in cities which can be troublesome.

For fucks sake. If you put 1/5th of the effort of thinking up some crazy 3d printing/casting bullshit into just learning how to use a lathe and a milling machine, you could build your own guns all day without some gimmick meme shit.