Where were you when emulators made CRTs irrelevant?

Modified Royale. XM29 fucks with the color temperature too much

I know, my boy Mario looks so pale with XM29, but Royale has so many artifacts.

Attached: mario.webm (1250x896, 1.81M)

Do you guys have the modified file?

poorfag cope

I was shocked at what it did to megaman's armor. I just copied XM29's settings to Royale to get a similar look without the color shift.

Attached: 346483.gif (1100x825, 1.21M)

Not until we all have 4K monitors

>poorfag
>he thinks crt tvs are expensive
your post speaks more about you than about him

Who the fuck plays retro games on an emulator instead on the actual consoles on a CRT tv?

Attached: __imaizumi_kagerou_touhou_drawn_by_poronegi__3c3efa04e5846c61fb2d74882d1b63ec.jpg (800x1071, 166.14K)

you're retarded

Looks really nice!

>emulators are just as good!
(You)

A shitty filter won't do anything for LCD's dogshit color transitions. There's no such thing as response time on a CRT, color transitions are clean and instantaneous. LCDs just make everything blur to shit with even the slightest movement, even the black frame insertion and backlight strobing on high-end gaming monitors can't match the motion clarity of a CRT. They also can't display arbitrary resolutions without blurring them some more due to their fixed pixel grid. The only people who think LCD is better for games are desklets too weak to lift a CRT monitor.

Runahead and 4k shaders have practically made home consoles up to ps1 irrelevant. Especially if you play on an oled. You get the perfect blacks, color accuracy and input responsiveness of a CRT and can emulate whatever sort of CRT look you're going for (shadowmask, aperture grille etc)

As soon as parallel is fully useable with runahead then you can add N64 to that list too

I do. I play on a CRT monitor though, even modern PC games. I can't be bothered to get the original hardware for all the games i want to play. I find software emulation on a CRT monitor to be a decent compromise, at least for 16-bit consoles and older, anything like ps2 or GC with complex 3d graphics, i generally stick to real hardware, emulating only when it solves performance issues that make the original unenjoyable to play.

Pretty sure CRTs were made irrelevant long before emulators

>use crt
>spend 70 hours in the settings fucking with the geometry
>still looks off

Scanlines are a consequence not the "relevancy" of CRTs my dude.

>persistence motion blur blocks your path

Attached: SD Kotick.jpg (300x300, 21.01K)

Runahead is a hack that only works on games with built in input lag like mario world, yoshis island and shit. 8bit era generally didn't have input lag so runahead causes enemies to glitch out slightly or scrolling to jitter on direction changes. Get a 240Hz monitor, then each displayed frame arrives to your eyeballs at 4ms after generation worst case, so if your emulator is 1 frame behind real hardware, that 1 frame is only 4ms instead of 16.67ms.

It's not an overlay. You understand nothing about how these shaders work. Objectively speaking they are pretty damn close to emulating how a CRT displays a still image. That's pretty much a solved problem at this point. What remains is motion clarity, and that will be solved in the coming years with high refresh rate displays allowing enough headroom to effectively emulate how CRT's paint the image across the screen.

>There's no such thing as response time on a CRT
yes there is because it still takes 16.66~ ms to draw each frame
what you meant to say is that there is no processing which delays the image even further, but signal processing on modern gaming displays can go even lower than 1ms making it absolutely impossible for a human to notice a difference

This is due to the LUT setting. Open the preset in notepad and change the LUT texture file to the default 32.png and it will fix it.

Best CRT shader at the moment is crt-guest-dr-venom by the way. Put your display's brightness on max, turn everything off except scanlines, then increase scanline brightness/darkness until white stops looking white, then raise it until it looks white again. Then do the same thing for the strength of the phosphor mask. Results will vary depending on the brightness of your display, but this is how to objectively get the best scanlines/mask your monitor can possibly display. Using this method looks way more like the real thing than any preset I've come across. I'd post screenshots but they're on my other machine. Screenshots look way too dark anyway since you're using your monitor's max brightness to compensate.