AgrAryan: Summer Gardening Thread

I tried them last year in my first go-around. I have very rocky, clay-like soil, so needless to say they produced some by the end of the season, but not too many ripened. The root systems just couldn't develop. Soil amendment is definitely necessary in many places. It made a huge difference for me. I thought plants just grew like that, so I stuck with the more hardy plants from last year. To my surprise, first week of summer, my plants are as big as they were the second month of summer last year (and I don't have a greenhouse, and I lack the sun exposure to grow too much in windows). If I'd have known I would have gone with more variety. Now I'll be eating loads of squash, cucumber, tomatoes, peppers, and hopefully corn (something was snapping my stalks in half just for the hell of it, I had to box it in with plastic fencing, roof and all). I'm also going to try a fall garden this year. I'm saving all of my grass clipping and I'll mulch some leaves at the end of the year. I'm going to make that a regular addition to my soil. It really loosens it up.

4-6 people for tomatoes. All the left-over tomatoes get sauced after the end of their season when the the first few fruits in storage begin to start rotting.
We don't use store bought tomato sauce products except ketchup.

10-25 people for the cucumbers and zucchini.
I haven't started watering the fruit trees and they easily produce 100+ pounds of fruit, that's 10+ people.
I only grow high value or sensitive produce so I'm worried more about the yield per square foot and ease of picking.
I also only eat unprocessed tomatoes I grow.
I forgot about the onions, but they didn't do so well this year because I use drip instead of spray. Normally that's 50+ pounds.

If you have rocky soil your best bet is to use raised beds, or pick a spot and take out all the rocks by hand.
You could also plant the tomatoes in a 5 gallon planter.
Leaves work extremely well to loosen up soil. Especially oak leaves. Maple leaves work, but they can't be from a sweet variety. Hardwood charcoal also works.
Peat moss works, but you have to keep track of the acidity levels.
Mushroom compost is an ezpz amenity.
If you need to develop a dead soil, use sweet leaves in the fall (sugar maple, mulberry, and other fruit trees), along with some iron.

I wild-craft rare or desirable plant and herb seeds for selling on the net, plus some processed dried roots and herb both wild and gardened. I've gained a lot of knowledge about many niche market plants and my wife and I plan to start a small farm of a few acres to cater to the global demand, which would be good for the soul as well as the bank account. Start selling native tree seedlings too. Some plants have a yearly market demand of over 10k/year between seed and dry herb and no one adequately supplying them so a few dozen core species would provide an excellent living.

Looking forward to reading this thread later. I have nothing to contribute.

I'd grow herbs, but I barely know what goes well together when cooking. I don't have much space and I wouldn't want to inconvenience my landlord by placing in a garden (plus there's rabbits about). I'd have to resort to a potted plant or something

Do you have any tips on selling?
I'm sitting on a pretty large collection of valuable wetlands plants but I don't know what to do with the excess that I'm going to generate in the next few years.

I forgot to add that I also make custom drip emitters that aren't available on the market but I have no way to bring them to market.

Explain moar

Attempting to get some silver vine going. My soil is a tad sandy shite so it will be an uphill battle. To kickstart I'm trying hugelkulture and surrounding it with nitrogen fixers so I don't fuck up too bad.
Now if I could just get the seeds to germinate.

If you have bug problems I highly recommend buying a pump sprayer and coating the leaves with soapy water. Seems to have saved my plants from whatever was nibbling them when I wasn't looking.

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Does soap work on grasshoppers?

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>>>/gaschamber/

A bit late for planting, mate.

I made a raised bed and loaded it with a bunch of peppers and other veggies. It's going….okay. My tomatoes are all dead as well as everything else I didn't plant from seed.

I'm new to all of this gardening stuff, just going off of the few gardening/homestead Zig Forums threads that pop up every now and then.
Also reading /out/ on 4cunt.

Anyone have some links for newbs?

Twas a cold ass spring I tell you.

Checked, & true.

However, with gardening, you don't have to rely upon rainfall, if you're willing to water. So all you need to take into account is the number of days

Yes. gen.lib.rus.ec/

Just search up local farmers on jewtube. Every area will have it's own unique circumstances.
Like fuck if I ever have to worry about water shortage, but fuck me if I want to grow anything but potatoes without some serious manure. Your soil may retain too much or too little water, etc etc so many potential follies.

Not to mention that your soil can be a patch of unusual soil, differing from literally everyone around you.

You will need to be self sufficient during the collapse or else you die from hunger.

my soil always has a grocery store on it with fresh fruit and veggies, even during winter

I think the greenhouse that is automated for the types of vegetables and fruits may help you.

How do you build your own drip tape?

Interested because rolls of it are expensive

We had a cold spring that delayed planting, and even then we had a late frost that killed all my tomato plants so I had to start new ones from seed in June. But now that it has warmed up things are going well. I am testing a bunch of things this year, hybrid super sweet corn vs heirloom, till vs no-till, white clover as a living mulch, buckwheat and oats as cover crops. I have just over 50 varieties this year including at least one of each of the following: carrots, squash, corn, pumpkins, tomatoes, peppers, melons, ground cherries, beans, peas, onions, leaks, turnips, parsnips, potatoes, celeriac, broccoli, cabbage, cucumbers, radishes, and assorted lettuces, spinaches, kales, mustards, etc for salads. Plus the perennials: asparagus, rhubarb, strawberries, raspberries and blackberries.

Both of those things are complete bullshit. Gardening is full of myths like those, I've been testing as many of them as I can. Planting tomatoes like that lowered yield by 8%. Planting them deep and straight lowered yield 12%. Pruning didn't change yields at all. Do side by side trials to test these things instead of just repeating them.

Not just them, also everyone who lives in a northern climate. When you have a 100-120 day growing season, you can't afford to be planting shit late.

rapidgator.net/file/401052a8b97c48123e7897d13c671c6b/lc80t.W.G.T.HF.AO.S.epub.html
Don't treat it like gospel or anything, but it is on the right track at least. It has the best good advice to bad advice ratio I have seen from a gardening book. Also raised beds are a completely pointless waste of time and money.

Local farmers will almost without exception be growing things you don't want to grow, and will be doing it via the "destroy soil, dump fertilizer on it, spray tons of pesticides" routine. You should be doing zero of those things. You don't need any manure by the way, are you destroying your soil like a farmer or something?

This. And where I am it's not even worth starting. Maybe I can doing something indoors. I wanna grow onions, garlic and serranos.

isnt there a board for this type of info , its getting pretty technical and not political at all

Onions don't do well indoors, and garlic you plant in the fall.

There's a dozen of them, all dead. Face it, there's /v/ and Zig Forums and that's it.

If you're doing something small scale, just use pressure compensating emitters and either the half inch or micro-tubing.
Ideal spacing is a 0.5gph every 2 inches for deep rooting plants.
Shallow rooting plants like onions require surface spraying.

You're either planting your tomatoes in the ground, or wood raised beds. Deep planting is garbage, and my picture is not deep planting.
The effects on fruit production are unmistakable with a proper heat retaining bed.
Pruning increases yields on indeterminate varieties by keeping the plant from putting energy into non-producing suckers.
It is no different than pruning water shoots on fruiting trees.
Not only that, but pruning improves air flow which delays the onset of mildew, which extends the growing season by several weeks.
Why do you think I say these things?

Complete garbage advice for anything less than 9b, not cereal, and not cabbage.

If your soil is too shit for tomatoes, grow potatoes and graft your tomato plants on to them.

Like I said, TEST IT. I know you say those things because "bob's shitty youtube channel" says them. I did not say your picture is deep planting, I clearly specified what your picture describes only lowers yield by 8%, while deep planting lowers it by 12%. Both of these techniques are old wive's tales spread by people who don't understand plant physiology and mistakenly think more roots = more fruit. All it does is slow down early growth while the plant grows a bunch of replacement roots.

Same deal with the pruning myth. All suckers are producers. Pruning suckers simply changes the shape of the plant from sprawling and wide to tall and thin. It does not change yield at all. Pruning suckers does not improve airflow, people mistakenly believe pruning leaves below the lowest sucker does that. Again, do an actual trial, there is no impact on powdery mildew or late blight.

And finally, if you want to say "complete garbage advice", actually provide something to support it. I am in Canada zone 5, not the pussy US "zone 5". The people around here who wasted money on raised beds can't manage to produce half of what I get, while I do less work. If you have a heavy clay soil just dump a foot of organic matter on it and you're done.

I would sincerely like to encourage everyone to raise plants in some form or another. Even just a Chia pet can bring great peace and joy to your environment.

I work as a professional botanist and I can't tell you how much I enjoy plants and what they do for me as a person. To be able to watch life grow before your eyes and see a beautiful thing start from something as tiny as a seed and grow into a mature adult before your eyes is one of the best experiences a human can have I think. It really does bring you inner-peace and a beautiful sense and comfort with life.

I've been so fortunate in that I've gotten all my friends into growing plants. It's the best! We all exchange pictures and plants and talk about it. I'm telling you, once you get that first seed to crack the soil. It becomes a wonderful positive addiction in your life.

All my friends tell me that they don't have green thumbs in the beginning. But I'm telling you, I tried to and failed to grow plants for a good year or two, failing miserably before I finally got the hang of it. Anyone can do it and thrive at this. It just takes a little love and a little patience.

My friends and I all started growing bag seeds we found in marijuana. But you can do literally anything you want! Grow a nice little pepper plant in your kitchen. Grow a funny Chia Pet in your bathroom. Grow some sunflowers outside. There's literally no limit to what you can do. And it's so rewarding and such a nice hobby.

Anyway, I hope my words inspire you to put your hands in the soil.

If the soil is shitty you can grow in buckets or make a raised beds
If you dont like spending money on a truckload of soil you can collect leafs in the autumn and pack the beds with it worms will move in and make black soil out of it and it will be ready to use the coming spring.

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There isn't going to be a collapse, Varg. There is a decline happening, and you will need to be self sufficient still.

But don't waste the wood building boxes, just dump it on the ground. Even the worst clay soils will be fixed in just 3 years as long as you don't dig/till/plow/etc.

you can use scrap wood or pallet collars,
pallet collars are good because they are free or almost free

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docs.lib.purdue.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1043&context=fvtrials
Pruning lowered yields across the board.

All wood is free if you have a forest. It would still be more useful to burn it for heat. The only upside to boxes is grass won't spread into the bed from walkways. But it comes with significant downsides, and grass is easy to eliminate anyways. If you want to start small just use pots. Then graduate to the real thing, there's no need for big pseudo containers. When you start feeding a family entirely from your garden, you'll want long beds that are ground level so you can use a GT and save yourself a shit load of time.

We are talking about raised beds for shitty soil.
These are ideal for some backyard growing. Salad herbs tomatoes etc

"Raised beds" work in shitty soil, because they are putting a foot of compost over the shitty soil. There is no need to waste time effort and money building a box around that foot of compost. The box is not helpful, the compost is. And as I very clearly said, if you skip the stupid box, after 3 years it will be down to soil level, and the soil will be fixed. So you won't need the extra work and expense of making raised beds any more. If you just want a few tomato plants and herbs and your soil is shit, just use pots. If you are growing enough to have one or more beds, then making wood or brick boxes for those beds is harmful, not helpful. Just make a foot deep bed of compost without the box.

What's a GT?

I think you are autist that dont grow shit
you need truckloads to improve the soil in a yard, this is a compromise people that actually grow stuff use.

Garden tractor. That could be either a two wheel walk behind type like this gardentractortalk.com/forums/topic/15562-bolens-versa-matic/ or a 4 wheel like this: tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/001/4/1/1412-ford-lgt-125-photos.html

Obviously if you are a varg that thinks the world will revert to the iron age this isn't very relevant, but for everyone else they are great.

You need exactly the same amount regardless of whether you surround it by a box or not. How exactly can you be this stupid and still manage to use a computer? A foot of compost in a box does exactly the same thing as that foot of compost without the box you tard.

Let me be more clear, search jewtube for local permaculture enthusiasts.

Meanwhile every writer or leader you faggots cream yourselves too looked down on plebs doing agricultural work.
Yes it's ascended tier redpill to spread cartloads of cow manure in the searing heat of the Sun.

Here's the veggie cheat sheat from Zig Forums just in case the money is a little tight for fancy stuff. Happy growing.

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I've been inspired to start building terrariums as gifts and to keep at my 'desk' at work. Not as big an obligation as other plant gifts as they require no care, also resistant to the less-than-verdant environment I work in

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4 different breeds of tomatoes, strawberries and raspberries.
Wanted to grow cucumbers too, but sadly the gardener I bought the seedlings from last year didn't have any, which is a real shame since they absolutely exploded last year

My orchard has an apricot , two apple , and two cherry trees. Garden has tomatoes peppers and basil
All doing good

Of late I've been tempted to experiment in trying to create optimised growth environments for various food plants.
Seeing if its possible to create perfect conditions to maximise growth and minimise time spent growing.

Naturally this would require a sealed climate controlled growth environment but I may have a good chunk of what I'd need lying around here.

Anyone here got any ideas, opinions or relevant experience on the matter?
I'm thinking for the first trial run upping atmospheric pressure, humidity and CO2 content.

Depending on locale a lot of municipalities offer free soil tests in the US, especially if you're in a rural/marginally rural area.

Yes, yes. We all know you heebs hate both nature and work. But seriously spreading compost is done in the spring and/or fall, not in the hot sun.

Most plants are time sensitive. Things like controlling moisture and increasing CO2 increase yields, but they don't speed up the process.

Even if they don't, it is cheap and well worth it for your first year. Once you find out what your soil needs and add it, you will be fine after that as long as you stay no till/no dig and keep adding a mulch.

Right so time isn't gonna be affected for most.
Unfortunate but boosting yields should be enough.
One other reason I'm wanting to look at this is that it may be a good way to get around the pesticide issue. Since we're having issues with weedkillers and pesticides damaging the environment and harming consumers along with pests becoming increasingly resistant to the chemicals used to kill them.

If you're growing in a sealed controlled environment there's no way to for pests or weeds to get at your plants meaning you don't need to use pesticides.

So what about air pressure? Any benefits to plants from higher or lower pressure environments?
And humidity? Do we want it high or low?

You already don't need to use pesticides growing things normally. I don't know about pressure, but humidity depends on the plant. Some tropical plants want high humidity, most veggies don't care. Unless you are starved for space, it is probably cheaper to increase yields by planting more plants than by building greenhouses and pumping them with CO2.

I agree very much with your sentiment regarding pruning vs. yields, but I think the other user is misunderstanding the purpose of pruning suckers from tomato plants. In my region, letting the plants go to bush by leaving suckers makes them harder to manage and requires larger spacing between plants. I do a 6ft string trellis and my plants are already pushing 8ft in height, but I've started to train them horizontal. Leaving the suckers would have likely kept yield per plant the same but would've decreased my yield per square foot. This guidance is specific to my region/conditions tho.

So why are we having this problem with pesticide runoff?

kike owned and subsidized commercial scale agriculture perhaps.

Yeah, these myths usually have some basis and people misunderstood and warped it into something wrong. Commercial growers prune to maximize yield per square foot, because they are growing in greenhouses so area is the most expensive thing. That's not the case for most people, but everyone wants to copy commercial operations assuming that must be best. It is like the chucklefucks around here that pay someone to plow their garden because if a farmer does it then it must be good!

Because of the jewishness of industrial farming. They buy land, destroy the fertility in the soil, burn shit loads of oil spreading fertilizer on it to compensate, leave the soil barren so it gets full of weeds, then grow a huge monoculture of one plant to attract disease and insects. Then they "need" to spray toxic shit everywhere to get rid of the weeds and insects and diseases. On a family scale none of that applies. Grow a mulch crop, put it on your garden, the end. Your local garden ecosystem will balance itself and you won't have huge pest problems. If you lose 10% of your beans to insect damage, just plant 10% more beans. Grow a variety of things and you don't have huge swarms of particular pests breeding out of control and destroying everything like a farm.

But isn't large scale monoculture farming more efficient?

Indeed many people don't understand the purpose of tilling is to turn organic matter under the soil to aid in decomposition and soil building. Most hobby/urban farmers I know think that having some light grass in their garden is the end of the world then wonder why their topsoil washes off every year.

Started a raised bed garden this year. I have jalapeno, string beans, red peppers, tons of lettuce and about a dozen tomato plants. All coming out very well. Just had some string beans a moment ago with lunch, absolutely fantastic.

Also, I planted two mammoth-sized sunflowers, zinnias, and marigolds. There's some more flowers I put in a pot, but I can't tell you all of em (there was at least a dozen different flowers in the pack). Sunflowers are about 5 feet and they'll get to 7, with a one-foot diameter head. Once the seeds are fully matured I'm gonna soak em in a brine, add seasonings and roast em. Looking at mid-July for the harvest on those.

To any anons unsure about making the jump and creating a garden; just do it. You will absolutely thank yourself once everything is growing and you'll enjoy the fruits of your labor. Plus, it creates a very 'homey' atmosphere to your property while also increasing value.

Is more CONVENIENT for (((THEM)))

Efficient how? For an energy used to energy produced ratio, no. For a people producing food to people being available to die in kike wars ratio, yes. This is why cities and industrial agriculture exist, to move more people away from being humans and into being pawns for kikes. First it was for war purposes, then it was shifted to being for factory workers. Now they don't know what to do with all the useless city dwellers because they shipped all the manufacturing overseas. We're going to run out of phosphate rock to mine for fertilizer anyways, so industrial farming will end no matter what.

I have seen all sorts of incorrect reasoning given for tilling. Yours is actually one of them. Turning organic matter under the soil prevents soil building, it doesn't aid it. Tillage serves two purposes. One is to make the soil less fertile and less hospitable to plant life. This lowers the number of weeds, but obviously also makes the plants you want to grow require irrigation and fertilization. Which of course then helps the weeds too, defeating the purpose. The second is to make a loose seed bed for small seeds like lettuce and carrots. I can't find any evidence if tilling just the top inch for this purpose is harmful, helpful or neither, but tilling 4+ inches deep lowers yields, increases fertilizer requirements, and increases irrigation requirements. I am going to do a trial next year on discing vs tilling vs nothing at 1 and 2 inch depths and see if it matters. Check out plowmans folly and the follow up for a discussion of the problems with plowing, it largely applies to rotary tillage as well.

soilandhealth.org/copyrighted-book/plowmans-folly/
soilandhealth.org/copyrighted-book/a-second-look/

Uses of tilling is site specific and the boon or bane of it is going to vary based on individual conditions. In my area the soil has a high clay content and thus has issues with water retention vs. runoff. This is aided, in my situation, by tilling in organic matter from the previous years growth into the soil in the fall and loosening the hard packed crust with tilling in the spring. I think you're confusing situational advice with general practice. If you can grow a garden with no tilling, of course you should avoid it.

...

No, you are confusing "common wisdom" with reality. Your situation is not aided by tilling, it is worsened. Adding organic matter helps. Tilling hurts. You are doing both, and then seeing that the benefit of the organic matter outweighs the harm of the tillage, and proclaiming tillage a benefit. Actually read the books I just linked, they are short and very easy to understand. We've known for 80+ years that tillage is harmful. Stop causing yourself problems and learn. Or if reading is too hard, just look at the results of no-till on rock hard compacted clay: hooktube.com/channel/UCB1J6siDdmhwah7q0O2WJBg
Your situation is not unique, it is not special, and it is not helped by tillage. There would be no hard packed crust if you left the organic residue on the top of the soil where it belongs.

sweat potatoes theyre the best reliable

Again, you're making a broad generalization having 0 knowledge of my soil conditions and growing conditions. People speaking with authority while lacking vital information is the root of the problem. I have tried no dig personally to poor results and many local farmers have tried different methods such as slit tilling with poor results.

Look for a pdf or paperback copy of "Square Foot Gardening" it's perfect for urban and suburban gardening

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No, you are ignoring reality because you don't like it. There are no conditions which make tillage helpful. It is always bad. You are saying "cutting off my fingers helps me play piano" and I am saying no it doesn't and you are telling me I don't know what color the rug beside your piano is so I am wrong. Again, watch any of those videos. That is no dig on compacted heavy clay. If you think your soil is magic and needs tillage, then tell me what your soil is. Because if you are right, it will be the first time any soil anywhere on earth has ever been identified that benefits from tillage.

You've strayed into senseless analgoy of ridiculous content so I think at this point I'll abandon the conversation.

Why are you so butthurt about making a mistake? It is by far the most common mistake in gardening, there's no need to double down and act stupid. Add equal amounts of compost to two beds. Till one, not the other. Plant the same thing in both. You'll get ~20% more from the untilled bed, and you won't have to water it as much.

Tomatoes, eggplants, carrots, peppers, cucumbers, basil, garlic, thyme, oregano, onions. I am having trouble with my tomatoes. I think they are getting too much sun and are in pots that are too shallow.

I am savin money and putting equity into my house while I live in this place with no land in city limits while trying to learn about investing to grow my savings so I can buy a nice plot of land to start farming for the family I will soon have.

Even though I claimed to abandon the thread, I'll reply once more. I've done no dig. I've done several of the growing techniques in the videos on the channel you've linked in several different gardens/locations. It is labor intensive, expensive, and time consuming for marginal increases in yield. The techniques are not applicable to my growing conditions, as stated above. What's funny is you're making absolute statements on technique when anyone familiar with small scale agriculture would note that nearly every technique can improve yield with variable conditions. Why are you so butthurt that someone would reject your strict guidance when you know fuckall about the individual conditions?

So, you can't tell us what your magical conditions are that are completely different from everywhere else on the planet? I am so shocked. Maybe stop spouting idiocy then? Just because you are ass blasted over having made a mistake, doesn't mean you should promote that mistake for other people who are getting started to copy.

Nigger can you read? I said my soil conditions were high clay content with issues regarding water retention/runoff. No till would solve the problems just as well as tilling, if not better, BUT AT A HIGHER EXPENDITURE OF LABOR AND TIME. Are you familiar with the concept of efficiency or?

I have a dozen tomato plants, corn, peas, shelling beans, ten hills of taters, brussels sprouts, cucumbers, kale, onions, hot peppers, and some other stuff like radishes and carrots. I just pulled up my first row of turnips (they were ready in a little over a month) and they are being pickled via fermentation now, they'll last a year like that at cellar temperature. I was a bit surprised at how fast they grew, I'm going to put in another row of them soon.

I'm also going to put in some weed, it's legal to grow it here. Works wonders for my back pain.

I live in an area with a mild climate and have already grown cabbages, kale, broccoli, brussels sprouts, and potatoes in the winter.

Feels good to avoid the grocery store Jew.

All clay soils have that issue. The videos are showed you are from that exact condition. Your idiotic posts were "you don't know my conditions it doesn't work here", but the videos I gave you are those conditions and it does work there.

No till would solve the problems with less labor. Tilling requires more labor, and prevents your problem from ever being solved. How can you manage to believe that solving a problem by not doing something is more work than causing a problem by doing something?

For someone who wants to pretend he's not ass blasted, you sure do incoherently tard rage a lot. At list pick one lie and stick to it.

All this from the fucking moron making analogy to cutting off fingers and playing piano. The techniques have been applied personally, they are not worth the increases in time, labor, and money. What they show taking multiple people hours to prepare 50 sq ft for planting i could till 10x or 100x the area and prep for planting in the same time depending on equipment. You sound like a hobbiest with a 10 sq ft garden that some hippie lectured to at a workshop over the weekend and now you're going to enlighten us all.

Squirrels are delicious. Just think of it as raising wild squirrel meat! Cheap pellet gun = free foods.

No thanks.

Agreed, however many people claim the opposite. I've found that those people didn't bother to remove the glands, it's the same with raccoons, woodchucks, and beavers. There are stinky glands which are almost like kernels of corn in size and texture which have to be removed or they will discharge their smelly juices and spoil the meat.

you know those tree trimming services the city and counties use to keep shit off and away from powerlines and other critical services? They have a bitch of a time getting rid of that material. Walk up to em next time you see em and offer to have em unload all they want in your yard.

Pile it up high and wait an half year or a year. Then once you plant your shit, pile that material around your plants up high. Plant some more beans in it to break it down faster. It retains huge amounts of water, is drops minerals needed ready to eat for plants, and is light as fuck to work with. And after about a year and a half, EVERYTHING loves growing in that crap.

For best nitro retention pile chicken/cow shit under the piles or mix with horse detritus from stables in the first pile.

If you buy into the fertilizer meme, then you're going to end up poor.

Look into composting system, and ways to reclaim the nutrients in wasted plants. Any weeds you can clear out from an abandoned lot can be converted into fertilizer. You can use pee too, but you have to watch out for salt levels.

Also, a lot of horse and agricultural farms give away manure

I've done that style of planting before, using wood chips or hay bales, either spread or intact. While it is effective that year and perhaps the next, the issue still presents itself with the buildup of biomass on top of the soil, which is alleviated by tilling. I don't think no till is bad or anything, but the idiot I was arguing with is proposing it as some kind of wundershot that will fix or solve any agricultural problem when it is not the case.

meant for

First it doesn't work because clay. Now it works, but it is too much work. What on earth is it that you think takes so much work? Seriously, how does not doing something take more time than doing it? Your babbling isn't making any sense. Tilling is more work, and it causes your problem rather than solving it. You lack topsoil. Tilling prevents the creation of topsoil. You can never solve your problem if you till. You will always have shitty soil. Trying to insult your way out of it isn't going to work. You have a whole youtube channel full of videos showing you are wrong. He is not growing 10 sq feet, so no amount of wishing I am growing 10 sq feet is going to make your nonsense any less stupid.

A buildup of decomposed biomass on top of the soil is called topsoil. It is not something to be alleviated, it is what you are supposed to have. You are literally down to "my soil got good when I tried that so I had to till it to make it worse".

I know about composting. As for fertilizer, $40 to $60 should get me through a season. I'm looking at a good harvest this year using fertilizer. Last year I get some stuff late season and that was about it. For me and my small garden, it definitely seems worth it. I've got 9 tomatoes, 14 summer squash, 12 cucumbers, 2 peppers, and a few other things. It's a thousandfold better than last year. I loaded the garden with mulched leaves and grass clippings directly to soften the soil. Added peat moss. A little manure. And now I just top things off with with two liquid fertilizers. I don't know how necessary it is, but I'm seeing results, so I'm going to keep using it.

So does the concept of a hivemind seem familiar to anyone?
Before I saw this thread on the catalog, I had started a garden earlier this month.
It was shit digging and it is more a test of my resilience in keeping it fruitful, but I've started.
Looking forward to a future of owning much more land where I can have all my vegetables grown right near my house.

I get where you're coming from, but the thing with chemical fertlizers is they seem to stop working after a while. You get consistent long term results from organic approaches. I still use chemicals to patch in things I think might be lacking (usually iron and potassium), but the chemical fertilizers just dont build the soil the right way. If you lose soil diversity over time, ultimately that means you lose things that eat the bad stuff. There's a balance.

Tilling does work for some things. In large mono culture farms, it destroys the existing 'weeds' and allows the desired plants time to establish themselves. It also works to amend either organic material or materials to make it more loamy, this last one I've done to great effect, especially in conjunction with squrefoot gardening.

You building an raised bed a foot or so up. You till the dirt below it agents needed, broken down horse manure, egg shells, mostly broken down wood chips and all manor of other shit you need to up your areas soil. Then you pile on your broken down soil mixures above that and till it in again a bit shallower. mostly level. plant, and pile high with organics to act as mulch cover. Once main weak plants are established add in their helper plants in and enjoy.

Tilling does have use in shortcutting bad existing soil. If you live in an urban/suburban eviroment. At least the first two inches of soil are pretty much barren and inert, REQUIRING tillage just to even get started. Builders add builder sand (mined silica essentially) to all lawns because its easy to work with in leveling their plots and making it easy for mono culture grass stock to establish themselves at the expense of all other types of plants. So you have to punch thru that shit or your garden will never work, not matter how much organize shit you pile high, grass grows faster and mats enough to counter most anything more often than not.

Stick to the piano analogies buddy. A pile of biomass is not topsoil and loads of wood chips or hay is not topsoil either. Go back to the organic workshop and stick to your hobby garden.