Reloading thread

Powley computer predicts 36000 psi, extracts fine with no primer flattening.

Your dad is going to have a very very bad day if he tries putting that through his trap-door. 2100fps for that weight is top end for marlin leverguns. 300 grain in 45-70 is meant relatively flat trajectories to 300, beyond that the heavier bullets drop a little less.

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leverguns.com/articles/paco/4570_leverguns.htm
Get your dad to read this article.

Well no shit it's too hot for it, user. Somewhat milder rounds than that have popped Marlins open like a paper bag.
I just don't like that it took going onto their site to find out because they can't put specs on the box.

The faggot who sold the ammo lied through his teeth. SAAMI spec for 45-70 is 28kpsi so that it doesn't blow the fuck out of repro trap-door guns.

Gee Russia, can't you at least join the army? Maybe the mafia?

what do you niggers use to reload? I'm saving up for a Dillon xl650 press but I'm wondering if I even need that thing.

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Fancy discounted Hornady stuff.

Not even once Strelok. Less QC, easier to miss something and fuck up.

t. OP reloading for 10 years.

I have a reloading question!

I've acquired a 9mm AR-style carbine barrel, and I want to know if it's "safe" to load to normal AR-style pressures.
At this time my bolt is an industry standard blowback, non-locking bolt, and would be used the first few thousand rounds, presumably with factory range-grade ammo.
But let's say I manufacture a DI operated 9mm – custom drill a hole at about 2.5" out, and replace the hybrid bolt with a more conventional rotating lug design that will grab the 9mm rim.
According to Quickload, with the super-cheap 158 grain (yes, eek. But they were cheap) lead pills, I can concievably shove 5.7 grains of Accurate #5 underneath it, and for less than 50K of peak pressure, propel that bullet to almost 1350fps, north of 600 ft-lbs at the muzzle.
Or 5.2 grains, 1250fps/550 ft-lbs and call it a +p round. That doesn't sound so impressive, does it? I was getting better results pushing .357 SIG & 10mm to rifle-pressures, but since I don't have any components I was also using more reasonable assumptions.
Like: 140gr Hornady XTP, 8.7gr POWER PISTOL, 1790fps/990 ft-lbs out of a carbine. Or alternately, 8.2 grains, and within spec for 1470 out of a 6" long-slide. An extra 250 ft-lbs with two assumptions: AR style barrel extension, and an extra ten inches of barrel.

In case you only read half of that: tl;dr, I'm just playing with a spreadsheet, not actually assembling any of those loads I just quoted.
Yet.

How expensive would it be to convert a 10mmsuper redhawk into 10mm magnum?

XL650 is a fine machine to use. I have it currently set up for .357 mag and fart out top tier keith loads at a stupid rate per hour. It's also finicky and needs some know how and care, but that's pretty easy to do if you're not a complete retard- you will need an alignment tool for when the polymer index ring eventually wears and you start having trouble with the auto priming tool after 5 years/20k rounds approx. Fags like apparently think it's easy to fuck up a reload WHEN THE PRESS LITERALLY ENSURES EVERYTHING IS DONE FOR YOU. You just need to stick a bullet in and ensure you do the same forward and backward stroke every single time and you will thank yourself later.
If you haven't got the admittedly large chunk of change needed for an XL650, casefeeder, alignment tool and prumer warning beeper, you can do nearly as well with a lee turret press, which is more newfag friendly and cheaper to get conversion kits for (though five times slower). Single stage presses are mostly a meme- I use one solely for 45-70, and there's a much greater risk of a double charge through that method (so you need to develop means like charge and seat bullet in the same process, then crimp after they are all done). If you have absolutely no money or space but want to have the capability to load, a lee loader hammer kit bought alongside a jewellers rubber mallet and frankford arsenal scale will mean you are able to make 60 rounds an hour whilst listening to lectures or a radio show don't do one round in one hit, do all of it in batches.

Part of the reason for maximum pressures has to do not only with bolt thrust and barrel integrity, but also whether the brass even extracts. Likely, you will get case failures and sticky extractions if your DI piston doesn't rip the brass straight out. You are probably better off building a 10mm AR with a short barrel and beating the everloving CHRIST out of what you are shooting at- but admittedly I am curious about how far you can push a rifle-built AR. If you can do it with a 9 or a 10mm you have made a monster of a pistol carbine.

Anyone have experience with reloading .30-06 7.62×63mm for metric fags

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I never clean my cases and I still get deviations within 50fps of each other. If you police your brass, there's no need to do extra shit- your loads should have the same OAL and powder charge enough to provide consistent results within that box of ammo. The same applies with cast bullets- ideally, all bullets should come from the same alloy when loaded into a lot of brass, the remainder melted and made into a new batch, even if you were to control the alloy to a T. Our difference in attitude nay be related to the fact I use rimmed, straight wall cases exclusively.
On a related note, I have found that good lube prevents a lot of fouling when using bullets with fat grooves, namely 50/50 beeswax and moly grease. Flows really nicely through a lubrisizer without heat, makes any fouling left absurdly easy to remove after a days shooting. A second favourite of mine is beeswax and boot-polish, leaves the bore real nice and shiny (fouling becomes really easy to spot).

Fuck, undoing my sage

C'mon, just go join a shooting club or something

It's joke I'm assuming.

Aye! I feel you. It's the deepest depth of the abyss of feel, isn't it?

Blyat! I broke own leg in car crash to save self from conscription, and this homosex tell me I go and join army! And joining mafia mean I actually have to work or shoot straight for to be of earning a living.

This seems like the best place to ask: In dollar terms, what kind of investment (either for a new company or an established on like Hornady) would be needed to start producing 5.45x39mm domestically with brass cases and boxer primers? What about just boxer primers, while continuing to import steel cases from Europe?

You can never tell with us burgers I mistook the Indonesian flag for the Polish one the other day to my eternal shame.

do you cast your own or do you buy them?

So i have about 20 clip spoons, 400 55.6 links, and about 300 .50 bmg links. What should i do with them?
I ain't reloading ammo onto those, too much god damn work

I don't cast I just buy in bulk

Put the links in bags of ten and sell them as novelties.

Cast.

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fuck that, I'm going with the xl650

...

Has anyone tried the MEC marksman press? Is the floating shell holder thing just a meme or does it actually help?

You have that backwards boyo. The chad wouldn't care about getting .1% boost in muzzle velocity.
The chad would prefer to get the biggest muzzle blast for the buck
That chad aint got time for this pussy busy work, the chad has 50 magazines that need to be full by sundown.
The chad doesn't care about about a theoretical ammo malfunction when you're so chad your car needs a hazmat sticker
the chad could bury the virgin in brass casings alone

Also i use my preogressive press to make bulk 5.56 and 9mm. Not like they're tack drivers, who fucking cares about chasing moas.

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wew, nice

imagine being this much of a brainlet

Britbong here, what would I need to reload an normal, 12 gauge cartridge with birdshot?

So what does it make me when I have lee hammer kits for all calibers and kits for my xl650?

MEC press or a lee load all press.

Should have explained that better. I've got the press, what I need to know are things like the type and amount of powder ect.

Cop some reloading manuals and read through before you throw a single charge