Scrap or Restore?

If you have the dough consider getting an ultrasonic for the small parts, you'll get a much deeper clean than any brush.

That looks like it's been oiled and never cleaned.
First off, check the copper scrubby with a magnet since some are copper plated steel (as I found out attempting to make copper acetate for metal plating). Second, take the action out of the stock by loosening the screw on the bottom. After that, I'd use a pot that I don't care about to boil some water and dip the action in it to loosen up all the gunk. Dry it off, wipe off everything you can with some paper towels, and hose it down with some penetrating oil for the night.

It could be worse.

I'd personally recommend just using oil for loosening it.

I cant seem to get the bolt out. The trigger won't budge at all so the bolt won't slide the last bit out. The stock is off however.

Oil the ever loving shit out of it and work it back and forth for a bit, if you can cock it and hit the trigger.

These two screws seem to be preventing the trigger from moving. Can't ascertain what they do.

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Looks like that black piece blocking the trigger is the safety. The screws are holding down a spring so it doesn't flop forward and back.

Confirmed for safety. I'm an actual retard. Continuing.

Finally removed the spoiler. The screw holding the receiver(?)(pic related) won't budge, seems like its made of butter so its trying yo strip. I'm going to soak it in oil and walk away for awhile, seems to be the general theme here.

The following is a general procedure for getting rusted parts un-stuck.
Grab your choice of penetrating oil. Kroil, B'Laster, whatever. WD-40 is weaksauce. Soak it down, let it sit for a couple hours.
Get a brass rod, wooden dowel, or otherwise non-marring drift, and a tiny little tappet hammer. Put the drift on the part, and hit the other end with the hammer. Give it a couple of taps and see if you can get it to move. Never hit it harder, get a bigger hammer.
Did it budge? Apply more penetrating oil, and tap it back to where it was. Work it back and forth with the drift. If you try to force it one way you'll just wedge it in place and then you'll be really fucked. The idea is to work the rust loose and flush it out with periodic applications of penetrating oil.

That looks remarkably similar to my Remington Model 151. Is it a case of convergent evolution, or did somebody go full Chinese Knockoff on someone else?

(Pic related)

Noted. Makes sense, appreciate the advice.

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I'll echo this sentiment, but I'll add to it: "you were cleaning out your parent's garage. dig around for a car battery charger, and rig that shit up to run electrolysis. pretty efficient way to clean shit up".

If there is enough of a lip showing, try some screw pliers to bite the screw head and turn it.

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Well I got it functional, or at least I assume. Never did get that screw out, just cleaned around it carefully. I would like to go test fire it but the only range around me is a shotgun range or some nonsense. I was wondering how I might go about getting Permissions? I live in a small city in Ohio, there area around is pretty rural. Is cold calling farmers a thing or will I get shot?

I'm sure it's safe to shoot, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to pay a gunsmith to inspect it

O hey I have one of those. Can post picd of anything you need on request.

Most pistol ranges will allow you to use .22s. Also, look for state run ranges, there may be one near you.

.22 shotshells?

Why not put out an ad on Craigslist, just saying you need some land to test your plinker on? If it's a .22, then who gives a shit, and who would say no? It's the Midwest, everyone and their mum's packin heat in the cun'ry.

Make sure that your extractors are nice and clean. They're every Marlin's Achilles' heel.

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I live in a more rural area and I have a few friends that have beater guns that have been put away wet, left to rust and not cleaned in years. They usually still function though unless the rust is extremely bad. The rust on yours doesn't look like it's too bad, with a good thorough disassembly and cleaning (that may or may not uncover additional rust/damage in more critical places) and some some steel wool to take off some of that surface rust or rust within the rifle that may affect it's function, I think it looks shootable at least. Although a full restoration might be another ordeal entirely.

I still have flashbacks about lugeranon

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If it was the captured one, did not he use emery cloth?

Do the Gods honest thing and de-rust the motherfucker first. There's no shame in coming here to seek an unsolicited opinion. Many of the kommandos here aren't gunsmiths – they just love guns. As someone who routinely takes apart guns and replaces parts, I'll tell you there's nothing irredeemable about this arm. Unfortunately, at a .22 lr, there's no point.

it's a .22 it's pretty low pressure, just derust it and it should be gtg, can't tell you how accurate it will be tho

Sorry if I sound like a retard, but does the presence of rust somehow accelerate rusting? Many mechanics and similar occupation people I've talked with seem to believe so but haven't found any proper science sauce that supports the claim.

Nowhere near being an expert but it honestly doesn't seem as bad as you might think it does. I've seen people shoot way rustier shit than that.

Also this, plus the rust seems superficial too, I don't think it would affect the structural integrity of the barrel, on the contrary it might just have fucked up the rifling.

The presence of rust creates more available surface area, which will then go rusty, and so on.

That's assuming you don't polish surfaces smooth again. Once a surface has rusted, the parts underneath are pretty well protected from oxidation as long as the rust remains there.