Using 3D printers to produce molds for Investment Casting

Tolerances on 3D printers are shit. Why not just make the molds from an actual gun in burgeristan or something? Can't you do that? Or just use CNC mills. Regardless, the australian government didn't ban guns by accident, they did it on purpose. As soon as this casting business gets going they will ban it too. Even if they don't, casting metal requires substantial infrastructure, not only will that exclude most of the population, but people who have the ability to do it will be easy to monitor and catch.

I'm sure that Australia, like any country, has an active black market in guns smuggled in or stolen from legitimate domestic owners.

Why not just keep a goat then instead of all this complicated business? The problem is also not having the gun, but actually using it legally. What good is an illegal gun if defending your life with it will get you thrown in jail? Or are you trying to get people to rebel? If they didn't rebel back when they had guns, I doubt they'll rebel now during peak bread and circus.

kek, you want customers of your illicit enterprise to provide incriminating photographic evidence of themselves?


Exactly the same as any other diamond.


It's a diamond, so probably not.

Just like almost every other gem, diamonds come in a variety of colors/hues usually depending on the nature of their impurities.

Day 10

A list of parts in preparation for making a foundry: drive.google.com/file/d/1P2KXdH2s9iyapWRKIvzHE4MnAxUrbhof/view?usp=sharing

Was looking for a commercial Venturi Burner, but it might be better to make the Neck pipe and Nozzle head myself and attach a Blowpipe to it.

Attached: 3&Dbot Mobile 3D Printer.gif (500x333, 3.6M)

strayastrelok, I feel your pain brother. I have investigated the possibilities of home made firearms from scratch, and I have discovered what will not work, as well as a possible solution that I am developing that might work.

First what needs to be understood is the most difficult part of any firearm: the barrel. The barrel receives the most heat and pressure out of any part of the gun. Furthermore barrels are the most difficult part of the firearm to manufacture. While many anons think that creating barrels is easy, because creating rifling is easy, they mistakenly skip the most difficult part of the process, which is drilling the hole to make the barrel. Using a standard twist drill will NOT create a barrel. Instead the drill will walk (meaning the tip will begin to wander toward the side) as soon as it gets deeper into the material than 3x the diameter. Drilling barrels is difficult because it normally requires high pressure coolant pumping and a specialized gun drill to cut a straight hole. Your options for barrels are as follows:
A. taking an existing barrel and re-purposing it
B. using an existing steel tube or pipe as a barrel
C. casting a barrel
D. drilling a hole through a steel rod to make a new barrel

Let us examine what the limitations are of each of these options.
Barrels can be easily regulated. Any existing barrel manufacturer can easily be pressured by the government into selling their product only to the appropriate agencies, cutting you off from a supply.

While these tubes are easy to acquire and inexpensive, the problem is that their pre-existing sizes and limited materials available cut down your choices for firearms. You are effectively limited to shotguns or pistols.

If you were to cast a barrel, you would inevitably end up with impurities in it. This is because any sort of backyard means of heating steel to a liquid state for pouring would introduce extra carbon and oxygen into it. Both would weaken the steel, potentially leading to premature failure.

Conventionally, this is expensive. You would first need a long enough lathe in order to set up your operation, then you would need to add a high pressure coolant setup. Depending on how long a barrel you want, you are looking at a cost of about $10,000 for tooling.

However, I believe there is an alternative method. EDM (Electrical Discharge Machining) is a means of cutting metal by using sparks. It can be used to cut with HIGH PRECISION through any material with little vibration. I am personally working on a project to make a barrel by creating an EDM gun drill. I plan to do this by creating a pulse EDM machine (look up Ben Flemming, he designed his own) and connecting it to a RAMPS 1.4 3d printer board, and programming it to drill the hole.

EDM is a slow process, and in the production business, speed is king, even if it costs more in tooling. Furthermore EDM isn't a well known process.
I work full time and go to school, and I suck at electronics. Unfortunately the schematic for Fleming's EDM machine is not exactly easy for newbies to understand, so it will be some time before I have a strong enough grasp of what needs to be modified to make it compatible with the other components I plan to merge with it. If any streloks know electronics and want to help, I can provide contact info.

Which should tell you that "exactly the same as any other diamond" implies possible hue variation. Corpse diamonds are a meme, there's nothing distinguishing them from other diamonds, they all look the same. It's just a piece of carbon, not some fucking eldritch mana crystal.

I greatly appreciate the time you took to write this. This might help in your quest.

EDM: An electrically conductive metal is eroded using an electrical arc of plasma. The work-piece is grounded with a clamp to make it part of the same electric circuit that the electrode is part of. A dielectric oil (Doesn't conduct electricity) fills the gap between the electrode and metal. When the oil cannot resist the high AC voltage, the electrons jump from the electrode to the workpiece in the form of plasma which erodes both the metal and the electrode. todaysmachiningworld.com/magazine/how-it-works-wire-edm/ Though similar to Arc Welding, the electrode must not touch the workpiece. EDM also uses a higher frequency AC than in Arc Welding.

Flushing is considered the most important factor in EDM. This E-book describes all the methods used to remove eroded particles from a cavity: reliableedm.com/Complete EDM Handbook/Complete EDM Handbook_12.pdf

The electrodes used in SMAW (Stick) welding melt into the joint, becoming part of the weld. These are called Consumable Electrodes. There are only two types of electrodes that do not melt and they are both used in TIG welding. One these non-consumable electrodes are made of Carbon Graphite (May be bare or have a coating of Copper) which are used in Air Carbon Arc Cutting which has the eroded material blown away by compressed air. The second type is Tungsten and its various alloys. Tungsten containing 0.3% or 0.5% Zirconium are good for AC, but Tungsten containing 1% or 2% Thorium are even better as they last longer and can be used with higher Alternating Current.

You should be able to use a Carbon electrode in a SMAW handle (Sometimes just a clamp) and the inverter that comes with it. If you have a Lathe or very tall Drill Press, it might be possible to isolate the rod from both the Tailstock Quill (From which the barrel is held) and Spindles Chuck (Normally holds the drill bit, but in this case the Carbon electrode) by using a thick rubber sleeve. This could be made by melting or Wedging rubber pieces of the exact same thickness around the Carbon electrode and metal rod to be bored. This is just so you can hold the parts in place, the electricity is what’s doing the drilling. The Dielectric fluid (Mineral Oil or the pro stuff easternpetroleum.in/edm_oil.html ) is squirted into the cavity. Make sure it doesn't enter the electrics of the Lathe!!!

You next option is the RepRap Kossel reprap.org/wiki/Kossel

High Voltage electricity is scary stuff though. You can find out more about how E-feilds work here on Page 5 (Although it hasn't been proof-read yet): drive.google.com/file/d/1P2KXdH2s9iyapWRKIvzHE4MnAxUrbhof/view?usp=sharing

instructables.com/id/EDM-Electrical-Discharge-Machining/

Attached: Electrical discharge Machining.webm (300x229 891.83 KB, 1.54M)

Something that you ought to beware of, is that the plasma creates an EMP that interferes with electronics. If this becomes a problem for the Arduino, you can build your own Faraday Cage ibloga.blogspot.com/2010/02/how-to-protect-your-electronics-from.html

30 Gauge (0.25mm | 0.01") Copper or Brass wire is typically used in EDM, which can take 0.142 Ampere at what I'm assuming is 270 kHz AC. powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm If your using a Drill Press, a Stepper Motor with a Reducing Gearbox (Say 100:1) could turn the handle via a Timing Belt (Toothed belt strap that fits onto a gear). You could glue a Gear onto the Handle.

Adafruit Motor Shield V2 for Arduino: learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-motor-shield-v2-for-arduino
.pdf instructions (Page 32): cdn-learn.adafruit.com/downloads/pdf/adafruit-motor-shield-v2-for-arduino.pdf
Arduino Stepper Library: arduino.cc/en/Reference/Stepper

I appreciate the enthusiastic response OP, but in my case the issue comes from a lack of education regarding electrical components and making circuits. I'm currently trying to reverse engineer the circuit from the book in my notes to make sure I'm taking the components I need without the ones I don't, as well as making the connections I need to the arduino to allow it to control the machine.

I've linked the board stuffing instructions from Fleming's Pulse EDM board that he sells on his site. Take a look at the schematic on page 4. While the book goes into some detail on what each of the sub circuits are in the schematic (power, pulse timer, dither timer, motor) the exact details are never explained on what each individual component does, so I have to figure out stuff like, what is part of the dither circuit that I'm not going to add, that I need to remove.

My general plan is to connect the window comparator circuit via a voltage divider to one of the arduino sensor pins, as well as replace the buzzer with a 5v pin from the arduino and a sensor pin for edge finding. I also want to change some of the switches to relays/fets for the arduino to control automatically, but I don't know enough about what components to use in each case. I also have to look at what pins are available to use and whether I have to look at using a different board.

Everything you said is true, but this is an incredibly pessimistic estimate. If I was buying a brand new toolroom lathe and all the accessories and the gun drill maybe I could spend that much.

Going off of Sterling Gun Drill list prices, the drill itself and the tool holder are going to run you about three hundred bucks. The worst thing is the coolant pump, they're trying to sell a setup that runs off of shop air, but I don't see any reason why a conventional pump of suitable pressure and flow wouldn't do the same job. And engine lathes can be had surplus for a couple grand, depending on specifications.

defdist.org/
defcad.com/
The website doesn't seem to load. All it does is ask you to subscribe.

Download the files

3dsha.re/product/gun-8-mm-printable/?id=16114

grabcad.com/library/liberator-guns-full-1#!

theproxybay.net/?load=/torrent/8061276/3D_gun_print_DEFCAD_MEGA_PACK_v3_with_updates_zip

Note: It sounds like there are files available on the DarkWeb.