A hub for people with a taste for knives.
Will answer questions and give insight on knives, since I've been collecting for a long time , using knives in the outdoors and practicing knife-related martial arts.
Will not bother with the retarded sub-types and mall ninjas and teens like those found on cuckchan.
Other urls found in this thread:
docs.google.com
midwayusa.com
bladeforums.com
paintwerkz.com
amazon.com
twitter.com
I specialize in military / survival / "tactical" fixed blade knives, but anything goes. I've had many different knives from many different brands, and have a wide experience with knife media. My oppinions are based on my experience and differ from what JewTube tries to market you.
The only knives I'm not interested in are the african nigger abominations, and the only information I'm not sharing is where to find special knives at special prices. However I'm a regular person, if I found the places you can find them as well.
Is there any type of knife you believe is best suited inside a first aid kit?
Alright I got one for you. I do tree removal and climb trees via ropes often. I want a good fully serrated knife between 3 and 4 inches long edge (bit longer may be acceptable) with a good sheath that I can strap to my harness. Obviously a fixed blade that can cut rope quickly in case I fuck up and need to drop something. Got a really cheap Condor high carbon straight edge that I've put a razor edge on to do the job now but I would like something that will reliably saw through rope under tension or not.
Any suggestions?
Also bright colors are acceptable.
you are such a fucking braggart. i couldnt give less of a shit about how much of a knife autist you are.
Would there be any advantage to an Anglo-Saxon seax style blade on a bayonet/general purpose military knife? I ask because the Bowie knife has a broadly similar shape so I wonder if there is any utility there.
My favorite. ZT 0350
If I wanted to make absolutely sure that in the rare eventuality that I'd need to cut rope that rope should be cut yes or yes I'd go for a serrated Spyderco Aqua Salt with a yellow handle. Jumpaster and Jumpmaster 2 are also options, but they're heavier and more expensive. The Aqua Salt is the better tool / work knife.
If you dont want to spend a lot and just want the knife for emergencies, then a plain edge Morakniv will cut as well, in carbon preferably, and there's also a rope cutting version.
For canyons and climbing I carry a Spyderhawk, which is a hawkbill folder, and I'm a collector and on the spectrum, so Spydercos are more valued by me. However the Morakniv is the affordable common sense choice.
Both are great utilitarian tool knives, and both will grow on you if you like knives.
If something public and static nothing or the cheapest crap. Maybe just razors.
If it's your personal first aid kit I wouldnt include a knife insiide, or maybe a Havalon folder with extra scalpel replacements.
Stabs better than something round I guess. Many knife styles are due to culture and related to time and geographic region, without any objectively superior or inferior qualities that can be measured in a scale of "progress" so to speak.
A bowie will slice better because of the curve, I guess, and maybe chop better. A seax is straight, but for the use a knife should have it's ok.
I'll take a look at the Spyderco, already have an Endura Wave that I love so I'm pretty sure the Aqua Salt will do nicely. Thank you buddy.
Is there a more rugged folder then the Emerson Folders?
Buy chinese flippers with D2 steel. If you go for made by TwoSun for like $50 you will get knives superior to any production knife you can buy from western manufacturers. If you go for the ones selling for $20 or so they're still pretty quality but you might have problems with the axle screw dunno the actual term for it backing off from the repeated action of opening the knife.
all imo tbh but the knives I've bought from SpyderCo, Benchmade, CRKT and the like, even for upwards of $200 are pretty much either of the same level of quality or alot worse quality than what I've gotten with quality chink knives. SpyderCo especially I've found to be junk more often than not. Their back-lock mechanism is always shakey which is ridiculous because mechanically it should give the blade a very firm lockup; I think it's from poor manufacturing.
Plenty. Emersons are neither tough not rugged.
The Emerson lock is laughably weak and bad, the steel was ok in the 1990s. Of Emerson I only like the designs. The build is total shit and so are the prices.
I'm mostly a collector, I dont give a shit for chinkshit or high tech low drag folders, but Two Sun is interesting.
Spyderco has many clones, and all my spydercos have solid locks and no play whatsoever. Maybe you got a clone, a bad one, or dindnt adjust the pivot screw properly.
As for the prices, it has to do with YouTube and forums raising demand for knives. The bubble will soon burst and many makers will fuck off forever.
What kind of knife can I carry and not get into trouble if I get searched? I was thinking about something like pic related but perhaps you lads got some better ideas.
Depending on country or state, the razor would be out of the question. I get away with carrying knives most of the time because i say they are for work. Granted, they are, as an electrician has to skin wire.
so what do u recommend as a tough rugged folder?
I carry an east German AK-74 bayonet for stump/root clean up. Can't get away with carrying that without odd looks unless I forget to take off my saw chaps (which has happened numerous times).
Cold Steel's folders
look at how deep that lockbar reaches into the blade tang
I like the American Lawman
I was checking out a few knife under 50 bucks… I was considering to get either a Glock 78 or a S&W "Search and Rescue" Tanto, both around $45.
Is there anything worth more for the same price?
For what exactly? I'd say Mora 2000. It's good for lots of things, you can cut kielbasa, you can cut wood, you can cut just about anything. Not good for batoning, but it's for fags anyway.
...
That list isn't very complete.
Look at this shit. You see how the unlocking lever is a stud on the side of the grip, instead of a lever on the inside of the blade recess? Why don't more knife companies make their folders like this? It's much faster than those frame lock bars you get on most folders, and unlike those you don't have to put your fingers across the knife's arc of travel to unlock it. It's not more expensive; picrelated costs 40 shekels and I've seen it go for less. It's an objectively superior system, yet most folders don't use it and I can't imagine why.
last i checked this one is ridiculusly overpriced compared to alternatives that mora has, some of which are even better like that one with 3mm wide blade, you can chop rocks with it
t.has 2 moras
also i dont recommend opinel. is meme shit honestly and only reason why you would get one i can imagine is your pride of being french or something
I won't even ask if "tanto" point is a meme, because it was invented by fucking Cold Steel. But does it work?
Depends on what you're trying to do.
Stab straight through some thick barrier? Yup.
Cold Steels folding knives are very good these days.
That's the "American Tanto" shape. Yes, it works because sharpened prybars dont cut well anyways. However it is a lie that the tip is stronger. It can be in fact weaker due to the more acute angle.
So then, what happens if you add sawteeth to the back of it? Will you get a knife that is excellent at stabbing through aramit, can be used to pry open things, has a pommel that can be used as a hammer, and also function as a saw?
I'll be honest, I'm not familiar with their products, all I know is that they are kind of over-the-top when it comes to advertising.
Framelocks are simpler, backlocks easier to clean.
That's Benchmade's approach as well and it's more prone to failure due to rust or dirt. That's why.
The knife spectrum is so wide it is pointless for me to say yes or no or to recommend one random knife that is good, you need to be more specific.
Glock knives are shit and are bought by armies in the 4-12$ range. They are too thick to cut and too narrow to chop. They dont do anything well. Handle isnt grippy, point is blunt or broken from the factory. Angle is like 30 degrees + per side, etc…..
S&W is chinashit. Don't buy knives from gun brands, save for the higher end ones like Wilson Combat that have agreements with high tier brands.
they have the most secure lock in the industry, the "Tri-ad."
they use modern high-carbide steels now, so the edge retention is great
they use solid g-10, so the knives are relatively light but very strong
midwayusa runs good deals on their knives from time to time
midwayusa.com
Anyone have any good recommendations for a loaner knife? Something cheap that I won't mind letting other people use.
I got an Opinel as a gift. Is it really that bad?
One thing I noticed is generally lukewarm reactions when I pull it out, whereas when I pull out a black tactical-looking CRKT people either go "HO SHIT HE'S GOT A KNOIFE" or "HO SHIT THAT'S A SWEET KNOIFE".
What's the general consensus about titanium alloys for swords?
Straight-up titanium would be too soft, like how aluminum is. But we make gun parts out of 7075, which is aluminum with a bunch of stuff added. Or meld multiple metals in layers, like the famed japanese katana.
As a neat extra feature, titanium is moderately easy to anodize into a variety of bright and interesting colors, and is slightly (a lot?) more resistant to rusting if you leave blood on it overnight.
I'm not hoping to go full Blade, or recreate the four foot long nodachi. Just something about three and a half feet total, full handle tang hand-and-a-half handled slashing+stabbing tool, like the "ninja" swords.
opinels are pretty good and that lukewarm reaction to you deploying one is one of the reasons why. its completely inoffensive so you wont have any trouble with people for using it. their carbon steel is very easy to sharpen and can take a very good edge. it wont stay that sharp for long though, both because of the properties of the steel and the fact that the edge is interfacing with the wooden handle when closed. also if you have a chance to pick between a few different ones, try to ensure that you get one with a straight blade–the blades being bent is a fairly common issue with them
There's a nickel/titanium alloy called SM-100 that for a time was a popular "super metal" used to make blades, but I haven't seen anything about it recently. When properly heat treated it's about as hard as 440C stainless steel but is lighter and has the corrosion resistance of titanium. NASA did some tests on it's cousin material, Nitinol 60, and found that it makes for a great ball bearing. Does that mean it makes for a great blade? Tests I could find online have been mixed.
Nitinol 60 is notoriously difficult to manufacture, but SM-100 is supposed to have fixed that problem. Only one company makes SM-100 and they always make it in small batches, so you can just take a guess at the cost and how difficult it is to get your hands on it.
I've heard promising things about carbonized titanium, but I don't know much about it.
Like you said pure titanium is no good for a blade due to it's softness, but it's also not very good for slashing weapons because it's too light. When you're cutting something you want weight. Executioner's swords would have no distal taper to give added weight and make it easier to cut off a disgraced nobles head.
Vid related is some people who did go full Blade and made a sword with a 100% titanium blade. Probably some useful information if you are making a titanium sword.
Well, the thread went to shit sooner than expected.
So long, mallninja faggots
The thread went to shitters since the begging, with your reddit-spaced OP and nigger behavior.
See:
And i was right, since all you did is ask generic nigger questions and mallninja bullshit like the cheap ignorant plebs you are.
Are there any preferred non-tacticool finishes/surface treatments to put on knives? My BK7 came with a black oxide finish and I'm of the understanding that's not very durable.
This is not a democratic thread nor I consider plebs and no - taste niggers as equals. Im here for those knife ethusiasts with questions or cravings for knowledge that i can answer as a collector and enthusiast myself. The only reply to generic reddit tier nigger questions or mallninja shit is belittlement at best or just a lack of reply.
Depends on what you mean by tacticool and what you want a coating for (or lack thereof)
Assuming what you seek is rust protection, I would divide them into the good coatings and the good non-coated finishes.
Gunkote (KG coating) is the absolute best coating for knives. Durable and thin. Chris Reeve knives, Winkler Knives, Spartan Blades, etc… are examples. It's a produc that's sprayed on and baked into the surface, popular with guns as well. The downside is that it may not be food safe.
The best non-coated finish for a carbon knife like the becker is mirror polish. The knife will slice better, be fairly protected from rust, and it won't smell (because some carbon steels smell like absolute shit).
Cerakote is shit, feels like wax or a crayon and wears out quick, staining everythin it touches. Fälkniven, Cold Steel are examples. It's popuar because it's easy to apply at home.
Sandpaper coating, like the one in ESEE knives, Beckers and BUSSE, the worst offender, is dogshit as well. It wears out ok, but it's like having sandpaper glued to the blade, and food and residue can be difficult to clean. BUSSE uses the same motherfucking coating as those "crackle finish" Zippo lighters.
I also dont recommend stonewashing carbon blades and forcing a patina if you want to touch food with it. It smells like shit and will make your food taste like rusty metal. The worst offender is Winkler Knives with their Caswell finish.
What you can realistically do and I recommend is use your knife with the coating, when it wears out, oil it, from time to time with food safe oils. If you want to get the coating off, strip it with a food safe compound or just sand it, then use MetalGlo to buff it to attain a polished finish.
Would gun-bluing the steel be bad for the same reason? It's also an oxidation process, but it doesn't form a "natural" patina.
To clarify, I mean "hot" bluing, not a DIY backyard cold blue.
Thanks fam, but I know how to Google. These forums only talk about "cold" bluing, which I know is far from ideal. I was asking about "hot" bluing, the shit done with boiling tanks of salts by professional gunmakers.
As someone comments on the forum, hot bluing would be much better, but look if the heat treatment is not damaged by the high temperatures. Probably not.
Bluing is toxic though, dont eat food with it.
What about cerakote? Either the c-series (air cure) or h-series (oven cure, but only about 300f)
To make absolutely sure, I'd lurk in the Cliff Stamp forums, which are the best online source of actual knife related info.
Cerakote is toxic as well, as for how much more or what kind of toxicity, I dont know. I know though that cerakote will stain hard bread, cheese, and other hard foods, and that's what you eat.
For a coating I'd go for Gunkote, which is apparently food safe, and it's honestly the hardest wearing, thinnest and smoothest coating.
Is there a better M9 style sawback clone than the Smith and Wesson Special Ops or is this it?
good riddance, fuck face
Some of what I've read indicates it's okay as long as you dry it properly afterwards and take a few other precautionary steps, but I'll be careful all the same. Gunkote does seem like the better option but I really like how bluing looks, so I'll likely go with that.
...
ironic, as Cliff Stamp views Cold Steel favorably
dumb kike
if this is a high grade high carbon steel, you're looking at the best knife in this thread.
simple, non-coated fixed blades with a 90 degree backside and no serrations are going to be the best knives.
look for knives that are full tang, and not stainless steel, but I grade above that.
A heavy, long, balanced, bowie-style knife will be the best for any situation in the woods are a knife fight scenario
ontario knife and other american knife companies that only sell to select redistribution outlets will give you the best steel, although will run you up price.
pound for pound, dollar for dollar, you can almost never go wrong on a decent investment on a knife.
a cheap 1$ knife will stay in your loadout, true, but a high carbon knife that holds an edge will stay razor sharp and strong over years of abuse.
ontario is pretty shit tbh
go ESEE
Why not Becker?
ESEE is pretty shit tbh
go BUSSE
Check out this cheap piece of shit that only cost me 37 dollaridoos.
Feels nice in the hand, and the steel is something called 7Cr17MOV steel. It's sharp and has taken quite a beating without failure so far. It's far bigger than it looks in the picture.
I needed a general purpose knife, and ended up getting the Glock 78.
What I do not understand is why it could cost 45 bucks in Evropa, while being only 30 in the US, despite being produced in Austria.
gay tbh
you could've bought a decent knife for $37 though
For the gentlemen.
good but overpriced
or ka-bar becker knives, good value in those
Thanks. I bought this once some years back and it's never really had a role. I prefer a shorter knife (BRKT Bravo 2 size) for camping/bushcraft/survival, folders for general utility, and dedicated hunting knives for hunting. My mil days are long behind me, but back then I had a Kabar. I think I bought this knife because of its similarity in size to a Kabar.
But as I said, it's never really had a role. Primarily because I don't know enough about knife design principles to understand what this knife's designer intended it for. Given OP's knife experience, what's this one for?
Think you're missing a pic there.
Yes I'm having some phoneposting difficulties. I will try from home tonight.
And now it freaking works.
Anyway the knife is a Swamp Rat Ratmandeux LE.
That's a good-looking blade. What's the hardware that's holding your grips to the tang, rivets? Was going to replace the bolts on my BK7 with stainless ones, but if I could I'd replace them with a setup like yours.
That one is for fun or military, in a position that uses knives often for various chores including non-cutting chores and isnt very mobile.
When I'm on expeditions and travels as a client, not as an organizer, I like to take one such knife with me (stout, thick, "excessive"). It has come handy many times. This BUSSE saved me and my companions when the guide didnt even have a folding knife with him and nobody carried an axe. It spit the logs to make fire at night.
I also prefer knives in the 4-5.5 inch range, six if it's light, so in my oppinion It's an emergency do-it-all knife, take it when you go outdoors for extended periods of time and dont trust the people your're travelling with in regards of gear and inventory organization. You know your knife is not going to fail and that's a very motivating thing.
How are ceramic knives? They make folding ceramic knives apparently.
These are my usual edc.
pic related every time
good
junky
Yes, they are rivets.
That's a big knife
How do you carry that?
Stock sheath attached to belt and paracord to anchor it across the leg.
So Geissele makes knives, apparently, under the moniker (((Abraham and Moses))), with a price tag to match. Steel is Carpenter PD1, not really sure how that compares in practical terms to 1095 in a knife blade.
MMMmmmmhhhh. I have the Titanium skeletonised handle version and I have to say the flipper is satisfying as fuck, every time.
Good for food preparation and not much else I'd say. I'd always be worried about the blade just breaking on me.
Anyway I got one of these like 2 years ago, had to sharpen it out of the box, but I still hate it. The leather handle is still dry and nasty even after like, 8 coats of dubbin and the blade scratched the [also very dry] sheath. Should I try and sell it and get a ka-bar? The ka-bars look so much sexier and in general just higher quality.
Knife looks promising and is already on my list but I dont care for the sheath, which doubles the price. A simple, quality kydex or aftermarket sheath would have sufficed. I think the way the sheath works and the aluminium are retarded choices. It also looks heavy for what it is. Too much handle mass / blade ratio.
As for Abraham and Moses, It sounds cool, like something out of a Metal Gear game, and Geissele has a great reputationand Geissele has a great reputation, but I dont care for the "holier than thou" attitude these "operator" tacticlol products have. I have three winklers and they're shit for the price. The operator meme is a shit scam.
As for the rape prices, I'd wait to see if they change the sheath and the price goes down, and if they succeed they may mass produce or make the knife again, which will devalue the prices.
The tacticlol business will burst sooner than later anyways, I think they're late to the party.
Never ever feel bad if you ever miss that special bit of kit you wanted. It's not so special. If you look at their other knife it's standard as fuck.
I'm looking for a pocket knife, most of the shit I got is $10/30 lowe's/supermarket-tier junk and I want something more robust, something with a good feel. As for style, as long as I can avoid looking like a gigantic edgelord when I use it, I have zero cares.
budget is ideally up to $60 but if it's any more expensive, tell me your experience with it and why someone who usually uses it as a box cutter should buy it.
That's interesting, everyone I've ever shown my opinel thought it was a sweet knife.
Speaking of opinels, how do I take one apart and put it back together? my carbon opinel's got some rust on the metal that attaches to the lever, the idea of it rusting inside there is making my autism flare.
It sounds like you're talking about a single-bladed folder rather than a full on multitool so I'll go with my recommendation on that: SOG Flash II, with a straight (non-serrated) blade. I like it because, for only 40 shekels or so, you get a nice grip, a decently hard blade that holds an edge reasonably well, and all the features that I think are "necessary" on an EDC folder. Specifically, those are
-thumb stud for tacticool one-handed opening
-spring assist for tacticool high speed opening
-unlocking lever is on the handle, not inside the pocket where the blade goes (I have autistic paranoia about closing a blade on my thumb)
-a pocket clip
There's also a "safety" control that keeps the blade from opening, but I've never seen a need to use it, maybe you will. There are better knives out there with this featureset, but they're also a good deal more expensive.
Kershaw Barricade 8650
Holds edge very nicely. Also fits good in the hand. Used it a ton yet the edge still hasn't gone dull. Window breaker, seatbelt cutter, pocket clip and assisted speed opening. Paid 35 euros for it, but from the review it's 27 dollars in the US.
What does Zig Forums think of Puukos? Should I buy one?
Yes. Puukkos are great worker blades. No reason not to get one.
Decent knife. Easily honed razor sharp as well.
What is your favorite bushcraft knife?
i like becker knives from ontario and they are also ka-bar but i wish they didn't put that coating on the knife but the steel is actually pretty delicate (dents easily)
and i like ur 2nd image. what set is that.
I luv knives. dont have any guns tho.
if you are REALLY into bushcraft, youll probably find this tom brown knife atractive.
Dont do bushcraft, I think it's gay. I hike, climb and go places, not fuck around in a spot in the woods.
Right now I use a first gen Winkler Hunting Knife with tribal handle. Not great but I like it. I have a Mora Military, rebranded Mora Viking or some shit, that'd be ideal for bushcraft.
The second picture is a custom Winkler Hunting Knife. Very cool but grind is shit, super thick edge, no tip at all and sheath is not great.
TOPS is highly gay and mostly shit. They stole the Tracker design from David Beck
What kind of knife would Zig Forums recommend a poorfag get as a general purpose field knife?
And what would Zig Forums recommend for those who aren't poorfags, but who can't throw $200-300+ at a knife?
I've got a Buck 112 Ranger at the moment, but I am looking for a good fixed blade.
just bite the bullet and get an ESEE
go through Amazon, you can get an ESEE 4 with a sheath for $100 on there.
TOPS fucked up the blade shape (and corresponding edge geometry of the plain edge) on their Tracker. Others have reground it to be a good cutter, but one should not have to do something so drastic with a $300 knife in order to get it in working condition. YMMV.
The original! Nice.
For a field knife, there are a lot of great options that come cheap. I'd recommend the Becker BK9, anything from Ontario,
If you're a khukuri guy, you might like Himalayan Imports on BladeForums. They have deals over there that fall under $100 USD, and the KLVUK in particular is a steal.
For more mid-sized knives, the Gerber Strongarm is also a great purchase for cheap. Reviewers on YT passed this knife amongst each other and beat the shit out of it, and it never failed. Mora is another great choice, especially if you like scandi blades. ESEE, too, as another mentioned. Great heat treat. The ESEE 5 in particular is fantastic, as is the Izula.
Speaking a little more generally, though, if you can get a full tang knife at an acceptable blade length with a quality heat treat, you should be fine. Stay away from mystery steel or anything made in China. Good luck!
I'm looking for a basic switchblade. No larpy stuff, preferably in the $50 range, just a knoife that can duel purpose between utilitarian use as well as self defense if needed. I would go down to a store and buy one off the shelves but clearly I'm no knife autist so I want to know if you guys have anything specific to recommend.
A switchblade is shit for both of those things. A small fixed-blade knife will give you what you want. If you aren't able to carry a fixed blade knife for whatever reason, a traditional folder will serve you better than a switchblade. For self-defense, if you can't get a gun a collapsible baton is going to serve you better, especially if you don't have lots of training.
You're probably right, but I briefly looked into it and it seems it's illegal to conceal carry a switchblade in a bunch of states that I'll be stopping in anyways. So, retconning my question, any folding knives you'd recommend? To clarify, reason I'm not going for a fixed knife is because being able to carry the thing in my pocket seems pretty important.