Are 3d printed guns even a thing...

Do you have autism?

I'll post this here

...

new Russian pirate style?

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Gyrojets would completely fix the pressure issues, and they can be 3D printed as well. Also they can be triggered by a piezoelectric trigger from a lighter, removing the need for complex trigger mechanisms. The bullet would be a tube sealed on one end with four precise openings on the other end, and the gun would more or less be an open ended tube with a piezoelectric electricity generator on a spring at one end of the tube, depressed by a simple lever trigger in a grip. It would take almost no time to print this shit.

Cody Wilson is not a fucking engineer, none of these 3D printing "supastahs" are fucking engineers, and they do not know jack shit about weapons.

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That's not the point

3d printers are still expensive, high end, in development technology. Downloading of files on computers hooked up to the internet can sometimes be traced. Plastic projectiles are inferior to metal ones. Gyrojets are dogshit in general.

Johnny and his hydraulic 3/4 inch pipe 12 bore shotgun have a lot of advantages. Common parts they can't ban because they are important to everyday construction and maintenance. Simple cheap tools that can be bought for nothing anywhere and can't be traced for a million reasons, too common to register or keep track of, 100 year old hacksaws and files will do fine (sometimes are better quality than new) and again are part of production and maintainance. The smoothbore shotgun is incredibly deadly, far more lethal than a gyrojet projectile, and is far lower tech. One can make paper cartridges (save for primer) with children's art craft materials and simple explosives, and the projectiles can be anything from ball bearings to shot to rocks in a nigger rig throwaway gun.

3d printing so far has offered us nothing better than very old pipe shotgun of yore.

Slightly OT, but I briefly touched on this in the anti tank thread. Why not use something like ABS plastic to make warhead casings for an RPG-2 or other low pressure launcher? Should be durable enough to survive an impact and maintain structural integrity.

As far as 3D printed guns, they are still inferior to shit like Lutys and four winds shotguns. Also, they require you to have your own ammo, which will be very difficult in countries where arms are already tightly controlled.

The thing with 3d printing is that it can make a ready to use things without any(almost) physical work. Your normal liberal will never think of doing stuff with hand tools, as he does not know how to use them, while 3d printing can offer him something more. You sure can make an smg out of hand tools and bought parts, but these are not involved in mass shootings, as media says, so they are rare and not scary, while option that is clear to HIM and is within range of HIS possibilities does scare him and makes him want to deprive anyone else from that. Rejecting 3d printed gun restrictions would mean a lost battle for them, as the options they get is clear and present, so they would have little ground for further restrictions. That's why there has been so much moral panic around defcad, it's their own battle against themselves, so if they cannot deprive themselves from this one, other, less noticeable options will be unimportant, or futile for them.

Plastics can lose strength over time when exposed to heat. I wouldn't want a warhead filled with high explosives to lose structural integrity because I forgot it in a vehicle during the summer, or it sat in a hot warehouse.

ABS is resistant to normal temp levels of heat though. It would have to be hotter than the boiling point of water in order to melt ABS. I don't know an exact temp of when ABS will degrade structurally though.
Most of the interoir and exterior plastics on cars are ABS.

Have a friend who might have built airforce missiles made of ABS plastic.

Please educate the class.

As someone who has used 3d printing, mills and lathes, here are my experiences:
*Making a firearm from entirely out of 3d plastic is a bad idea.
*Making non-load bearing parts of a firearm from 3d plastic can work but so can just about any material as well.
*A 3d printer's that can do decent results are not expensive. By that I mean not fucking costing thousands of dollars or more. The kits that are worth a damn are around 300 to 700 dollars. Even the shitty sub-200 usd Chinese kits can provide decent results if you spend an autistic amount of time fine tuning them you won't.
*Mini mills and lathes that are in the same price range as 3d printers are shit, the ones that aren't are going to cost thousands of dollars. At that point you might as well look for a fixer upper mill or lathe.
*Making a 3d printed part is easier, just more time consuming.
*in general use 3d printing when plastic can do job for your part.
I know most of this is captain obvious shit, but i think it still needs to be stated since a lot of people forget the basics.

The point is that liberals were touting 3D printing as a glorious achievement that would usher in a new era of Star Trek glorious space communism replicators, democratizing manufacture. The Wikiweapon Project and the Liberator were a statement; a gesture that reminds these lefty drum circle enthusiasts of the reality that the world isn't going to conform to their utopian bullshit. The Liberator doesn't need to work well; it just needs to be seen doing what a gun does. It just needs to be a piece of digital information that makes it clear that anybody can, with relatively little effort, make a thing that can fire a bullet, and in theory kill somebody. Like the FP-45 from which it draws its name, its very existence and the knowledge that it is impossible to control is a threat to those who think they can impose their vision on the world.
3D printed guns aren't meant to compete with traditionally-manufactured guns; they're meant to be a statement. They're meant to be potentially anywhere. They're meant to keep Democrats awake at night. They're meant to make plain the reality that control is an illusion.

In your opinion, is it worth it to get a more ecpensive 3D printer capable of using stronger plastics, or to simply get a small CNC machine? I have no metalworking or CNC machining experience, but have worked with plastics and wood.

I don't understand the drama of 3d printing when anyone can just make a fucking zip gun.

You need to know what you're doing on a manual machine – speeds and feeds, chip load, depth of cut, tool flex, all that fun shit – before you can properly program a CNC. Even if you're using a fancy CAD/CAM software package it won't do everything for you, you still need to know enough to tell it what you need it to do.

Personally, a good set of hand tools, a drill press, and a lathe are going to be much more useful starting out than a mill, CNC or otherwise. If you absolutely must have one, get a benchtop mill that's 'CNC ready' but not actually so equipped. Splurge on ball screws if that's an option, and maybe a Digital Read Out as well. Learn to run it like that, then buy the stepper motors to bolt on and turn it into a full CNC.

And stay away from anything made in China.

Because to a gun control supporter, guns are almost magic wands. Maybe not Africa-tier understanding, and it's often not something conscious, but they don't think of them primarily as mechanical devices. It was actually getting curious about the mechanical workings of guns that made me personally realize I thought that way, and learning to appreciate the mechanisms was what made me receptive to a view of them other than what the media puts out.
Because of that attitude, the idea of a normal person making a gun is foreign. They think of them as something you need a factory and special devices and training to make. If you showed them something like a four-winds shotgun they'd probably try to dismiss it as not being a "proper" gun, or otherwise not counting. As for anything more complicated it's mostly what says, since it's metalworking more involved than "cut a pipe to length and screw a cap on", so it ends up falling under the "special devices and training". Even if they have experience with metalworking or otherwise working with their hands they can still pretend to themselves that if someone who isn't a gunsmith tries it, it'll blow up or just not work.
An ordinary person might be able to whittle down a piece of wood into a magic wand shape, but only a wizard can put the magic in.
Meanwhile, with a 3d-printed gun it's the plans that put the magic into the gun rather than the person making it, so anyone can do it. You just hit a button and it happens.

I think I'll just stick with hand tools for metal and wood, and get a decent printer setup for plastics. Are you familiar with the TAZ 6?

I built my own for $250 and I got ripped off at that price. It's cheaper than building a low-end computer these days and you can run it on an arduino or raspberry pi (or even shittier microcontrollers if you're willing to autism it out).

I had worked on a manual machine all of one time making some shitty wax stairs and didn't touch a mill for about 5 years when I got stuck in the CNC room at work and figured it out in about 8 hours.

Pushing buttons and running parts, or actually programming?

I pretty much agree with but with a few exceptions. If there's manual mill in a shop 9 of 10 times there will be a dro with it. Also the dro it will make your life easier since you don't have to worry about the backlash in the gears like you do with the dials.

The only thing that pops up with that on google is a lulzbot printer. That will definetly do the job but holy shit that is overpriced. I hope to god that comes fully assembled. If you must splurge your money go with the prusa i3 mk3, fully assembled if you want to waste your money at only half the price of a luzbot, they also have a multi printer head kit allow you to print with multiple filaments. Any FDM 3d printer that costs more than a prusa I think your just needlessly wasting money.

Well I had to create the program for the fixture in Dolphin, program it in CAD/CAM, set up my fixture in the CNC machine and control the speed and shit, so I'd say full-on programming.

The philosophy behind these pistols and the Liberator pistol of history is not that they should be for long term use. The Liberator pistol was designed and produced to provide a means for people living under occupation to acquire better weapons for themselves through one time use. The idea being that if you can ambush a sentry or a small group of soldiers that you can use the Liberator to kill them and then to take their weapons.

Yes, your concept of 3D-prined firearms is fucked up because you're not looking at the big picture and realizing the full potential.
3D printing of firearms as complete systems is breddy shit, but when you realize you can print half the gun and only require a receiver for a handgun and bullets, you're golden.

You're right. So you only have to build up the part that is missing. The rest can be printed with the 3d printer.
That's easier than building every part of the gun by hand.
And if you're actually in a resistance, that's easier to "mass produce" them, since you're reducing the part of craftsmanship and expertise required to build guns.
If you're in a guerrilla kind of war, as someone said in this thread, the goal with these made up weapons is the actually go get the regular one, one soldiers, or in depots.

Yes, for 2000 dollars. while a 3d printer using ABS, PLA or Nylon costs under $400($1100 for the fancy ones)

Someone's been reading SIEGE

There's a new 3d printer tech now, it is capable of laying carbon fiber/glass fiber between layers in a chosen pattern. It can make parts that are really tough, light and either act as Faraday's cage or not. If you planning on getting or building one, either look at this tech or make sure you can upgrade later. Still, nylon is nylon, do not expect to get a barrel or a chamber or a bolt out of it, so if the guns is what you want - go into metalworking. Generally, now a 3d printer is a normalfag's cnc machine shop that can fit into 1 cubic meter and does not need professional manual labor. If you have a machine shop, the benefit you might get is that you it will do unimportant work for you. Machining a part for testing? Something unimportant? Look CAD designs in practice before going further? All while not requiring you to do manual work? Good thing, but more about convenience than practicality.

Yeah, ready kits or printers are really overpriced. It almost looks like the situation with PCs. Build your own, if you can, you can easier modify it, expand it and it generally offers more flexibility. Also, possible larger base. Hypercube is pretty good, afaik.

I'm in vocational training for machining, so I don't know a lot, but I do have dozen odd hours on the vertical milling machine and lathe each, both with DRO, and the VMM with conversational CNC, but I haven't touched that yet. Honestly if you don't need to meet tight tolerances and don't plan on huge runs, just knowing your speeds and feeds will be enough for basic operations, especially with aluminum, or really simple shit like cutting a slot in a pipe. CNC could complete an 80% in no time at all, but doing manually isn't exactly a challenge. If fabricating from plain aluminum billet, CNC would be worthwhile.
Probably better off checking Craigslist for a used full sized model, making sure it's in decent shape and can hold tolerances, and getting that for 3000 or so rather than a benchtop for not all too much less, definitely better than trying to use a drill press as a mill, or eyeballing things with a file or rotary tool. Drill press is fantastic to have, but Morse and Jacobs tapers will not handle horizontally loading well, and the machine will really be strained.

G code is where it actually is programming. It's piss easy once you have an idea of what each command is and understand the cartesian coordinate system. CAM makes it very simple.
This goes to everyone, if you don't have a set of decent calipers, either dial or vernier, change that. Consider a micrometer too.

Checked, and also

Pardon my wild, unfailing ignorance, but what on earth do you do with those? It looks for all the world like a dial caliper will do everything a micrometer would, with less futzing with finding a third hand to hold things still.

For just about anything we are talking about here it's overkill. That said depending on your calipers, you'll probably have about .002" of error, if you ever need a really precise measurement, down to the tenth, it's good to have a mic on hand.

Mics give a more consistent reading thanks to the thimble giving out at the right pressure. Calipers don't have that luxury. If you have to precisely measure something that's doable with a mic or caliper, use the mic. If you're just roughing the part or have a +/-.005" tolerance calipers will do the job.