/arg/ arg AR15 general

I told you, man, CTR. The rest is 16" BCM upper with keymod handguards, Comp M4, Streamlight ProTac weapon light, Troy filp-up sights, and a rattle can paintjob. Standard everything else.

You really don't need all that shit. I thought you were just going to put a cleaning kit in it. Just pack that shit in a bag, or on your rig if you really need to have it on person. Honestly, it's not something that's going to break that often.

Hmmm

I think I'll return my ACS, I'm not totally sold on CTR I have used it before, it was solid but it doesnt really do anything waffleside m4 or N1 cant after it tight up. Here whats rub me wrong about my ACS.

- It's like inch and quarter longer which forgot at time of ordering I welcome it for shooting prone but I transport my rifle a lot and I dont need any more length atop 18" DD barrel
- storage tube plug doesnt seal well I would rather have screw in or plug in plastic w tight fitting O rings
- the QD socket housing recess hole wasnt undersized like its suppose to be so the teeth on bottom of socket can bit into it as I screw in allen bolt from other side but it just spin freely along with allen bolt which have too damn much locite that i cant squeeze hold the qd socket and my squeeze/pinch strength aint no slouch so I had to get vicegrip and padding to grip the socket as I screw bolt in
- have to nigger rig string for quick removal and installation
- friction lock isnt as strong and snappy as CTR i used before (lemon maybe)
- wish trapdoor storage space's bit bigger and waterproof
- it weight more than its worth imo

what I like
- aesthetic
- cheek wield
- felt indestructible

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It's line. Fishing line. Not string you illiterate nigger.

I mean, it's a stock, man. KISS principle.

Ah that's right! Much welcomed correction.

I'm all for KISS dude

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What might be the loudest round when fired from a short barreled AR? I read some post a while back of a guy who made a 10.5" AR10 build in 308 for no other reason than to piss off fudds at his range, which I thought was pretty funny. I think my next build is going to be something absolutely retarded like that, but was wondering if there's anything that makes a bigger boom in an SBR configuration.

Money well-spent.

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Make sure to add a fuckhuge muzzle brake. In fact, forego the AR. Get a short-barreled PTR91 with a muzzle brake so you can be loud as fuck while also slinging brass at literally everyone on the firing line.

7" barrel 50BMG

Probably want gloves and a face shield.

shoot under stabilized tumbling 220 GR ROUND NOSE tumbling out of short barrel 308 semi auto for ultimate FUCK YOU

Do this plz

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That's one comfy-looking rifle. Please tell me it's yours.

Yea it's my rifle. you don't know who I'm?

I'm CuriousGeorge widely hated tripfag from fourchan

Buildsheet

-Lower
-L.W. Schneider LPK
-H2 or H3 buffer cant remember
-Springco RED
-Colt N1 stock with foam ear plug in sling slot
-QD endplate cant remember who made its all steel and solid
-beautiful Colt mottled bakelite/fiberglass A1 grip (i have like 9 left in some
box)
-Geissele S3G trigger for hoot time
-Upper
- Beat up Stolen Colt M16a2 from actual marine camp something i forgot which
- Bushmaster HBAR CL 1/9 barrel for bullet hose magdumping (shoot fgmm 69smk submoa 5 shot group often even after all that round count and abuse) have (from socom I cant remember) side sling under FSB with clipped worn HK USP mag spring to hold bottom sling up to stop it rattling around
- Toolcraft BCG with LMT enhanced bolt for long life under abuse already over 8k on that carrier cam and firing pin replaced for preventative have old toolcraft bolt handy with maybe 6k cant remember lose my log paper when i cleaned my bedroom

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Bro, I haven't been back to that place since Oct 2014. I have no idea who you are. Nice build, though.

forgot to include
-lower is Anderson
-hand guard is thinner CAR style single heat shield from bushmaster I think not fat oval m4 style I hate.

Alrighty I just got back after like year I only have been at four chan since like maybe 2014 and start tripping for trolling as VladimirTheRussian around 2015-'16

Welcome back btw.

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What do you normally shoot with it? Any grain preference?

Pretty much my reason for wanting to do it. It's going to be a truck gun. Also I just realized if it's registered as a pistol with a fixed brace I won't have to worry about interstate travel like with an SBR, at least that's my understanding.

Ayy, welcome but just keep in mind we don't take kindly to tripfags around here. 8ch in general doesn't. Also you must agree to hate niggers and kikes and prepare for the race war.

A lot of questions. I thought the LMT BCG could only use the bolt it was made for but apparently I'm an idiot. Where did you find just the bolt itself? And why not buy the full LMT BCG since you obviously hate money? sicc build tho

oh boy whens msd going to show up and goatpost

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pic related old psa upper that i no longer own this is what over 5k rounds of 90%steel case look like

I shoot fuck ton of 55gr wolf/barnaul for training, plinking, and magdumping. I also shoot lot of Federal 55gr 223 100 rounds value pack from walmart when they go on sale or I come across Walmart that cant sell them and lower the price when I travel. 50 rounds perfecta 55gr too which's just made by fiochhi case are marked either G.F.I or perfectca i think there's one more marking im forgetting

64gr Speer Golddot for home defense or travel (recommend fusion 62gr which also bonded and perform the same for cheaper maybe)

69gr smk for group printing or longer distance shooting.

I like blackhill mk262 for 1/7 barrels but 69 fgmm shoot good out of all barrels i owned or tried

- doublestar
- spikes (made by fn to their spec)
- fn
- bushmaster
- PSA unlined/untreated cmv barrel pre-freedom line
and more im forgetting

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Thanks. I put together a 5.56 AR a few months ago and usually run 55gr Wolf Gold through it. I have parts for a 6.5 Grendel I plan on using for long distance shots and hunting.

old psa build with ancient PA md-09 i believe its long discontinued and buried pre advanced series battery life is like only 5k hours instead of 50k. I think I lost it or maybe sold it with other uppers. I love that reddot I went thur like 3 batteries and I never forgot and left it on (alot of usage with it on not that it drain while off) the o ring rotten-ed and I preventative replaced it with green o ring visible in pic. The dot isnt perfectly round it starburst-ed a bit bottom right but i use tip of dot rather than center anyway. But the blue tint was too strong imo. Rear fixed sight is saw off detachment carry handle sight from DPMS. The sling is some cheap Winchester foam sling that later foam broke away at sew line an my rifle fell but lucky I built it to take beating.

I cant remember why I didnt buy whole BCG prolly want to put more money in ammo. I would appreciate the improved cam path and extra gas bleed holes. Im leaning toward buying whole BCG now.

Im fairly sure I brought it from strong side tactical here

strongsidetactical.com/lmt-enhanced-bolt-assembly-5-56-223/

Dont worry the pic is wrong the lugs does have stress relief cuts on them.

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64gr golddot or fusion msr 62gr would do great for hunting small deer or hog closer in like under 200yds shot placement is critical I'm sure you already know.

here's 64gr GDSP performance after fbi light barrier test. It perform so well due to jacket being bonded to the lead core.

the velocity is slower and it drop bit more but when it hit….

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Oh forgot to ask which barrel and bolt did you went with for 6.5 Grendel?

go back to 4chan

Faxon 18' Gunner barrel an a Brownells Type II Grendel BCG. I'm still new to AR's and newer still to 6.5 Grendel, so I went with reputable companies that I know had little to no issues.

sage is not a downboat

Sound fine so far. Keep eye on that bolt tho.

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...

He's not using it as a downvote though, he just doesn't want to bump this shitty thread.
>>>/reddit/

If you have the barrel to stabilize them, the 75 grain Gold Dots are king of performance. The 5.56/223 has everything to gain from heavier bullets, they are simply small bullets over all with poor sectional density to begin with in general, and simply too light. I have some on hand for my M-16 style Windham, even though it would be the very last self defense gun I would choose behind my battle rifles.

As for deer hunting, the 223/5.56 is always a poorer, if not just plain poor choice. Poorer tissue damage, low penetration in non ideal shots, bullets fragmenting against shoulders in ideal shot angles, there are just too many good reasons not to choose the caliber.

I know. I recommend 64gr cause its more obtainable and better priced at least when I stockpiled it.

Agree its one of last pick for hunting but if I'm stuck with it I would only feel slightly under gunned when eradicating hogs closer in. Just know your dope, have good ranging skills and wind reading. I can confidently take head and necks shots inside 150 yds in average day conditions under 10mph wind (where i am 10 mph is highest average wind) without referring to dope card, I just wish velocity and bc was higher it drop too much imo but it cant be beaten for its wounding performance & reliability even after light barrier for my primary expected engagement range.

But I would much rather seeing hog get thumped with 308 fusion out of FAL or magnum bolt gun out distance.

*I meant 223/5.56 caliber as whole as last pick not speer GDSP load as last pick.

64gr GDSP is my absolutely first pick for the caliber for defensive/shooting at man inside 200yds armored or not (not that its nearly AP just that I will shoot unarmored area or keep shooting until I hit unarmored area on target)

mk262 past that unless I have 1/9 then 69gr SMK FGMM

Here you go pal

My build was essentially this PSA kit and an aero lower receiver. Changed out the foregrip for a mlok one.
palmettostatearmory.com/psa-16-carbine-length-5-56-nato-1-7-phosphate-freedom-rifle-kit.html
Thinking about whether to change out the upper later to either a rifle length 5.56 and try for an A2 build or just get something in a different caliber.

Be sure to truly consider the cost of ammo even if you reload if you go with other caliber other than 223/5.56. Do you truly enjoy shooting or its more about having rifle to your aesthetic taste? Do you value accuracy enough to spent for it like 1k more bucks? I'm trying to get thumb on you.

For me I truly enjoy shooting that I pour alot money into ammo. I had tons of fun doing drills and ringing steel with ironies/reddot/cheap burris FFII 2-7x35mm scope. I went thur phases from like printing tiniest groups I can firing slow as fuck honing my fundamentals to just shooting fast as I can out 100-200yds at disadvantage of ironies or reddot over magnified optic without any nice rifle rest just using mag as monopod until I run out mag and ammo and have my barrel smoking hot and melting cheap plastic handguard abit at barrel cap. Then theres long distance with bolt gun then back to shooting with ironies fast as I can.

What range distance you have available to you to shoot on? Can you actually afford to shoot say 1k 223/5.56 rounds per month? Will you actually do it? What kind of shooting you think you will enjoy?

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Please rate, comment, subscribe. Wanted to create as lightweight a gun as possible without decreasing durability or functionality. Ended up costing around $2000 in total, yes I know that's way more than is necessary for a good AR, the weight autism runs strong. I'm also fine paying an obscene amount of shekels for one AR because I absolutely refuse to own more than a single AR. Final weight before optic was 4.99 lbs.

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>TFW own an Olympic Arms PCR 20 in an AWB-compliant AR-15

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I just want to have a decently reliable rifle that can shoot ok and kill what's needed without blowing too much money on it.
I just picked up from here that 5.56 is a shitty round that's only good for plinking and that the only time it's somewhat decent is with a 20 inch barrel.
I go out maybe once a month or two months and shoot about 4 mags worth before calling it a day. I spent time shooting at ~50-75 yards with this ncstar.com/optics-acc/combos/ultimate-sighting-system-combos/stm3942gdv2-ussgenii3-9x42mil-retmtrd

CG here

Hmmm I respect your pursue despite being totally opposite end of spectrum as guy that like thicc heavy barrel for rigorous fire schedule or precision performance. Your pursue is totally understandable although it isnt true ultralight purse cause obviously you balanced it with functionality but yet there's hole in your theory.

Based on it is or it is not thinking. No bipod or forend attachment? Then simple plain ol fashioned thin carbon fiber handguard would have be superior choice due to vastly lighter weight. The carbon fiber handguard doesn't even need to be solid it can be slotted for further weight reduce and minimal length for weight. Barrel too, it should be 14.5 pencil KAC PDW style ball dimpled or heavily fluted if it is not pencil profile then pinned lightest muzzle device to meet 16" length heck might just be thread protector with steel rod wielded bottom of it just to meet 16" for reduced weight. Heck it can be drilled and attached with desired accessories such as sight, vfp, or bipod if needed. The grip isnt nearly lightest option there is. Nor is your BCG.

But I would have you executed for sin of poverty reddot after you tell me manufacturer and model of that rubber handguard grip attachment just for curiously and to increase my knowledge.

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next in line for execution

fix it immediately.

223/5.56 is absolutely good man-killer with good ammo in average expected combat range. It's good for shooting at pathetic small deer and coyotes around 100yds. It's just right for nearly exploding varmint and critter pests.

dropped! Next in line for execution!

However, how much you shoot and at that short range changing out barrel or caliber isnt worth it at all. Your money would be better spent putting toward cheap optic and ammo to shoot more.

PA/Holosun reddot
Primary arms or steiner prismatic scope (burris reticle suckass as much I like burris)
PA lower power variable (their glass are bit dark for cheaper options)
Vortex (strike eagle glass is gross wouldnt recommend try for HS line or PST minimum)
SWFA 1-4 or 1-6
etc.

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does it matter that much? pls halp

Ehhh well just upgrade it basically. Tell me what kind of shooting you like doing plinking at 100 yards or more precision group printing or longer range like 500 yds?

I'll make recommendation based on your planned use of rifle.

Ever had any malfunction with it? if so elaborate.

Plan to shoot more than 500 round a month or nah?

It is a home-defense/car gun; ranges from point blank and 50 yards max, realistically. It has never jammed. I do somewhat plan to fire 500 rounds, since .223 55 grain is cheap and the range is cheap.

I bought it for $400, including tax. Am I a brainlet?

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Not really I'm just glad its 400, its fine price. Thank god it isnt 700 or something.

Post pic of it already.

It's a2 upper right? A2 stock with rifle style buffer? CMV or SS barrel? You might get lucky and got good barrel you should have good barrel if it isnt shot out or ruined by bad cleaning by previous owner. You should carefully and gently thoroughly clean the barrel chemically remove all copper and carbon build up. Then start with average cheap 55gr brass case ammo like 50 round perfecta box for 30 cent per round (cpr) or federal 100 round value pack for similar cpr plus single box of glorious Federal premium Gold Medal 69 gr SMK (it isnt cheap ammo). Get decent cheap optic say PA or vortex or steiner 3x or 5x prism atop carry handle if its a2 and you arent willing to change out upper and start with cheap 55gr brass case ammo and try print tiniest 5 shot group you can for like 10 shots with cool down time each two groups then barrel should be fouled well and its time to bust our precious FGMM 69gr SMK adn shoot tiniest 5 shot groups you can. When shooting try to be stable and comfortable as you can dont even shoot single round until you are 100% comfortable and stable. I highly recommend shooitng prone with homemade sand, rice, corncob, crushed walnut bag atop of backpack plus other bag on bottom of your buttstock atop yoga mat so you can be comfortable at knee and elbow not have some sharp rock digging at ya. Then position yourself and rifle so it point naturally at target without needing your muscle. I meant like dont have rifle that want to aim 20 degree to left an you are fighting it to aim on target which eventually your muscle will be trembling an fatigued and result grouping will be disastrous. Be relaxed and calm take full deep breathing walk cross hair on target and hold your breath at like 3/4 lung capacity keep cross hair at bullseye and pull trigger ever slowly only when cross hair is perfectly lined do it just fast enough before your body even approach oxygen panic where your heart rate go up and random involuntary twitches might happen. IF you fail just give up and slump breathing agin regain calmity and o2 rich blood adjust your position try again learn from your mistakes and adjust. Find your grrove node and once you fire your first shot recover from recoil regain your cheekweild if it slipped butt on your shoulder too then repeat for next shot. shoot in 5 shots groups not 3.

You should be able to print around 1 to 1.5 moa at 100 yards with fgmm 69gr smk which mean you have okay good barrel shooter and you are okay good shooter. 2moa-ish with average 55gr brass case bulk ammo.

then you can just plink with it but if it shoot like say 2 or more moa with 69gr smk and same or worse with cheap 55 gr barrel you might want to try 50gr american eagle blue tipped ammo if it suck shooting that ammo too you got full blown shit barrel or your shooting skills sucks or maybe your cheap prism scope crosshair isn't tight down to upper or maybe cross hair is slightly loose and bounce around failing to hold zero (i have seen that with cheap scope) then you just send it back to factory for replace or repair for free under warranty after you full out their rma on their website for free shipping label.

i constantly shoot barely submoa with 69gr fgmm adn 50gr varmint American eagle ammo out any quality cmv, CL, nitrated barrel and submoa always with actually match grade SS barrel. cheap 55gr brass or steel case will always print 2moa-ish sometime under and over between lots batches

Ammo I speak of I love how 8ch allow me to upload more than one pic at time

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Optic I speak of for mounting atop carry handle if ya poverty.

I like vortex better for reticle lends itself more to precision shooting. And PA seem darker glass but I look thru them too far apart in time not side by side. Vortex prism did have some chromatic aberration. I would actually go Steiner or Trijicon ACOG ta33 or ta11 if i go prism but those cost more.

I must implore you to spent once once once cause if you pinch penny now it will cost you more in long run. Best thing is actually just say fuck it and settle with ironies until you rent peasant anymore and focus in improving yourself financially. Money saved is twice money earned. You dont have chance if you keep thinking like poor people.

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It's also import that you understand sights. Often the arrows or direction stated on adjustment on ironies or optic turrents are the direction of bullet impact not direct of reticle or picture are moving so you dont have to think. If you arent sure you can check and do it hard way by thought or just waste ammo like retard by trail and error.

Say you turn a2 windage 5 click rapidly counter clockwise and you see the peep sight clearly move to the left that mean the rear of rifle will need to pivot to right to line up sights when that happen whole rifle pivot muzzle to left to line up the sights on and aim at target therefore the barrel direction move left as if rifle is pivot in middle of sights so bullet goes left. Now for elevation say you move rear peep sight up then rifle will need to tilt down to line up sight and point barrel up as if its pivoted between sights moving bullet impact up.

For scope if you affix rifle perfectly still and you look thur scope as you turn turret you can see reticle clicking moving around in scope its kind of neat. If reticle move left then you need to point rifle little to right to line up reticle on target therefore bullet goes little right.

you will often see MOA it mean minute of angle whichs is a cone starting smaller at end of muzzle or your scope and it grow linearly larger as distance away from your rifle grows. if say scope say one click adjustment on turrent is 1/4 moa its about 1/4 of inch at 100 yards and 1/2 inch at 200 yds.

say you shoot three shot group at 100 yard after installing scope then you measure how much its off windage and elevation then you dial that much into scope to arrive your zero. and be aware of this concept wit height of your scope centerline above your bore line meaning if you zero at 100 yds closer in your bullet will hit low.

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Sorry for the wait. Here.

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Another. Stupid Zig Forums did not let me post all the pictures at once.

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Here is the barrel markings. Stainless Steel I assume.

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It's sub-5 lbs with a 20" barrel, obviously I could go lighter but I think that's getting into ultralight territory.

It's a matter of preparing for eventualities–I don't have a bipod or foregrip right now because my sling does all the stabilizing I need. But if I ever decide I want something in the future I can put it on, because I've got the M-lok.

You underestimate the wonder of magnesium meme material, friend. For the length I want, 12-13 inches, the difference between the lightest freefloat tube on the market (brigand arms blade) and the V7 I have on there now is only 1.5 ounces. And the V7 has an integrated QD sling mount, which the Brigand Arms doesn't have without an adapter. The difference between the V7 alone and Brigand Arms+Mlok adapter+QD mount is less than half an ounce. Once you add a second accessory of any kind the Brigand Arms ends up being heavier than the V7, so for my purposes the V7 is best.

14.5" is gay in my opinion, 5.56 was designed for 20" barrels so 20" barrels is what I want. This is meant to be a "do-all" gun that works in any scenario, extra velocity means it's useful at range. And yeah, I get that shorty barrels are better for TACTICOOL URBAN WARFARE, but here's how I see it: It's a lot easier to gain situational awareness and use your 20" gun indoors (I've tried slicing the pie on some tight corners, it's definitely doable), than it is to try and change the laws of physics so that the bullets from your 14.5" gun are still flying fast at 400 yards. Given that my autism demands 20", the Faxon is the lightest barrel that meets my requirements.

The grip is the lightest option that has 30 degree angle, a beavertail, and finger grooves, which for me are all requirements of a good grip. Any grip that doesn't have those three isn't comfortable for me to hold and therefore not a good grip. The BCG is the lightest BCG out there that is made out of all steel (durability+warranty requirement) and has a full auto cut. So it's the lightest BCG available that fits my requirements. I thought the ~1/2 ounce difference between it and the lightest titanium full auto BCG is worth the durability increase.

It's a placeholder I had lying around while I save up shekels. It will soon be replaced by a trijicon Accupoint 1-4x. Yeah yeah, I know that a 1-4x isn't the lightest possible option. But this is meant to be a flexible gun as well as light, and the Accupoint is the lightest solution there is for variable magnification. I considered a TA31 ACOG+offset RMR, but adding everything up shows that setup is almost exactly the same weight as the Accupoint setup anyways, so I may as well go for the full flexibility of 1-4x.

The rubber handguard is a Manta Tac-wrap, which unlike a lot of similar products is designed specifically to insulate against heat.

Hmm. Been awhile since I see that oly logo…

Yeah I think you have good barrel if that muzzle device set screw doesn't crush muzzle bore, its easier than you think. If it doesn't shoot well try remove muzzle device no? then saw off perfectly 90 degree by hacksaw carefully then file and sand muzzle. Lastly crown by dome head slot screw head with thread end bite by drill chuck. Absolutely redneck but I have done it to old beater glenfield now marlin m60 22 with ballooned bore from squib and it shoot like dream especially subsonic with shorter barrel after, before I sold it. I have seen other people do that online on forum back in day. That was when I was still in high school.

Oh man I miss my norinco 1911.

Thank you kindly

kidding I see your point. You did dodge a bullet with not getting ta31 with their horrible eye relief and eyebox. ta33 or ta11 is only wise choice for acog.

why? money? weight? extra 2-4x not enough for extra money and weight to you?

Crazy crowning by slot head screw turns out its very very very common and professional gunsmith practice in old day.

rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=901410

Its all over google forum archives

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Partially, but I'm also not quite convinced that you really need anything beyond 1-4 on an AR. Your effective range is 4-500 yards, isn't 4x good enough for that distance? If 4x is truly deficient I'm more than willing to consider jumping up to to an Accupoint 1-6.

oooh its plenty good enough for shooting at mansize target and 100% ringing steels all day. But you wont print anywhere to tiniest group against equally skilled shooter with more suited scope for group printing.

It's not bad, just pretty limited for what it is. It can be good at killing at slightly longer than PDW/SMG distances with proper ammo and is flat shooting. It's military decisions that gave it such a terrible reputation - being velocity dependent it loses a lot of effective range from shorter barrel, as well as using unreliable bullets that don't do even what they are supposed to, resulting in low chance of mediocre effectiveness for the round at stupidly low ranges and no chance of that beyond that. With 20" barrel and soft point it is quite potent at least up to 300m. abesguncave.com/why-556-223-is-both-the-best-and-worst-ar-15-cartridge/

there is a local gunsmith who could thread the barrel if i wanted to do that. I want to keep this low cost. ill probably keep the upper OEM so i can maybe sell it online to someone living in a ban state. i also for my personsl use want to change the handguard out and get a different pistol grip. the selector is wobbly and the bolt release is extra stiff. strange.

the gun came with a pic rail for the a2 top. cheap chinese shit i assume.

Where to find parts for this?

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Is is worth getting a 20 inch barrel if i'm mainly going to be firing at stuff within 100 feet? Rarely greater than that.
What are some good prebuilt uppers that won't be too expensive? Looking for less than $400. Less than $300 would be nice too.
Also, what are some cheap yet decent holo sights or optics for an AR? Have a ncstar acog sight, but it's starting to fall apart.

Damn it. I even have a proper enough setup (vice, vice block, proper wrench) that I've used to assemble some uppers. Any ideas before I wait for another Aero handguard+upper sale

That's just a fite light scr lower or ares defense whatever the fuck they're called now. The stocks that ship with the rifles are just rem 870 stocks that have been monkey fucked to fit (I'm pretty sure they make their own purpose built stocks now these days). Just find a custom stock maker who can copy the scr stock's internal dimensions.

20 inch is what 5.56/.223 was made for. You'll have better velocity, no over gassing, and softer felt recoil. Most other barrel lengths (can) still have issues with over gassing even with gas tube lengths like mid or intermediate, but that's easily fixed by using an adjustable gas block.
PSA will always be recommended here. Just make a note that they have varying tiers of quality with ptac being dog shit more like a gun show special, freedom being basic but serviceable, and premium having cold hammer forged barrels made by FN. As for holo sights, you won't really find them cheap. Holo is usually around $500-$600 with the cheapest being the vortx umg and the pricier ones being eotech but not by much. If it's red dots you want then check primary arms branded sights which are just rebranded holosun, and vortex for cheaper but not airsoft tier sights.

Worst case scenario is that your barrel nut is galled to fuck assuming it's steel. If it's an aluminum barrel nut apply more heat. For a possible retard solution try tapping the wrench with a hammer. At this point you either rape your barrel nut or it does get loose.

Kroil. Let it soak in.

You can get EOTech sights for ~$350-375 on sale if you're thrifty and they're incredibly sturdy.
I don't recommend going for the magnifier meme as 3x magnification in exchange for "fuck, my gun is rear heavy again" and the added cost with your holosight comes out to a decent 1x6/8 scope with mounts, which I think is the best magnification for 5.56.
Also, a 20 inch barrel bumps the velocity up on most 5.56 55gr rounds I think 62gr as well, but don't quote me on it enough that it can penetrate Level III steel plates at 50 yards. There was a big kerfluffle over this and it caused the "III+" designation to come out on the civilian market, so if you think you'll ever be shooting at people wearing body armor you should get the full length barrel.

Jeez, their merch is expensive. I'm assuming its good quality? Never heard of SCR before. Also, could just buy a nugget stock off eBay and cut it to fit that rifle too, right?

PSA uses loctite, user. I wish you the best of luck.

What kind? Isn't there a chemical that unbinds red loctite?

If I remember right they only use blue, so it's not as daunting as it could be, but it's still more of a hassle than it should be.

Might order or buy a 20 incher later.
Any particular brands to look for? Want a decent quality uppers that won't be too expensive. Keeping an eye on PSA for any good ones to come back on sale.
Is it worth buying one at a gun show?

Dear /ARG/
I am resolved on buying an AR this year, but I need some help trying to figure out what kind to get. I'm definitely set on 5.56 for this gun, I've heard lots of arguments for getting an AR with as short a barrel as possible, but I'd rather not deal with the ATF (so 14.5" with fixed muzzle break, or just a plain 16"), but then I've heard some folks argue that 5.56 is best stabilized in an 18-20 barrel.
In addition, What kind of gas system? I'm happier the farther out the gas port is on the barrel, but almost every

Can anybody tell me why the left-side charge right-side eject isn't the standard upper yet? Think about it
Honestly I don't know why anybody does anything else. I plan on getting a Spartan side charge non-reciprocating upper for my next build. Side-charging AR's are the future bite me.

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why not just get a garand or an m14?

specialopstactical.com/product/16-01-nitride-premium-siphon-agp-w-nickel-boron-rifle-length-barrel-2/

Please put a snout on this. I can't afford to feel sexually attracted to furfaggotry at that age.

You telling me you don't like free software?

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Land of the "free"

LMAO LAND OF THE "FREE" LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL
Why haven't you gone outside to kill some amerimutts?
Go outside and kill. Do it now! Kill kill kill!
If you don't do it now, you're a turbocuck. Kill a mutt right now!

Thank you very much!

Why haven't you?

It depends on what you intend to do with it. For SHTF prepping and/or mall ninja LARPing, id go with a 14.5(midlength gas). For a rangetoy target shooter, 18 or 20 with rifle length gas. If you have no idea and just want an AR, get a 16 with midlength gas.

Meant for

I built a 14.5 upper midlegth with BCM parts. I'm sure their complete 14.5 uppers are midlegth if you want to look