Basically my struggle is: I've already taken the time to glue the handles on. I forgot to harden the steel but I think it might not be too late. once it is almost done I will temper the end so it doesnt crack.
I'm just a little unsure of which parts need to be heated accurately.
you might be putting in too much effort
I used a metal brick strap for the whole design. I will use a riveting tool to make 2 rivets in each tool, with tin/aluminum rivets.
The handle will be covered in black electrical tape and the steel parts were sanded smooth with 150 grit and glued together with cement glue
What OP is doing is fairly cool, but if I were him, I would just buy a set of CNC-cutted pick-locks for 20 bucks.
yes but once I'm done I will be the king of /cyber/
Well, with only 3 pieces, you can probably open a can of tuna at best.
it gets boring out in the forest of sweden. Plus, it's very time-consuming and totally worth it.
this is the definition of Zig Forums
it will be a daimond, a snake, and a snowman or curve.
plus I have to fabricate a wrench with a twist in it so it has a little bit of tension adjustment.
does anybody here have tempering/hardening/annelaing experience?
I'm considering just hardening the entire thing and tempering the end specifically
Just smash the lock and buy a new lock. when will you have your lock pick kit and a lock you can't open
I should say some not most, I realize not many people spend money on good locks.
If someone went out of their way to get an industrial high grade steal door lock, do you really think they're going to put it on a wooden door? Most of the ones out there are made of the same shitty steal the residentials use except they add another pin for added security.
Whoops Freudian slip
a soldering torch or just a chinkshit, butane lighter
Methods of recommendation?
I also need a way to file them down with out a sand or belt or disc grinder.
that's the thing. see, theres these expensive locks they use on train tracks at the little light terminals with high grade locks, but still most pick sets can break 90% of those locks. people dont even think of attacking locks of higher end
wow I actually made a thread that people post in and not flame *pats back*
No idea what the fuck this thread even is, but those makita angle grinders are god tear.
*tier I'm retarded.
hell yeah they are I cut a goddamn bathtub in half with mine
should be filing my set tomorrow I can post some pics after they cool down.
im gonna harden by heating red hot then cooling down by air, then get them red hot again and dunk in water. then I can slowly temper the ends so I dont get splintering or dinks. should be fine. once they are nice and hard, I will file the shapes to spec then glue, sand and rivet.
anyone have advice for making a wrench?
i suggest going a little cooler than red-hot, seems like full-brittle might not be great for your intended application. just below red should be fine. also you should quench in oil, not water. used motor oil if you can find some. spicier and stronger.
gonna do that for a wrench. i found a street sweeper bristle that will work perfect. my other picks are hard enough.
I'll explain what i know, it's not 100% but you should be able to figure out the rest on your own. Yes you can harden your tips and just the tips if that's all you want and are too far ahead to remove your handles. Depending on what type of steel you have determines what temperature you'll bring your steel up to. If you look at pic related running along the horizontal axis is % of carbon within the steel, and on the vertical is temperature. You'll notice that for steels its pretty standard, cast iron is another ball game I'm not familiar with.
What my advice to you is, because you probably don't know what type of steel you have and what it's current treatment is, is to bring it up to austenitic ranges and keep it at the temperature for a period of time then let it air cool completely. This will allow the steel's crystal matrix to rearrange itself and undo any previous hardening/treatments. If you quench it as opposed to air cooling, your steel will be extremely hard but extremely brittle (snap it with your fingers brittle). After it's been normalized you can then play with the tempering. Its essentially the same process as normalizing except at a lower temperature and this time you would quench it in water or oil. What I've been told is a light bluish to blue hint then quench.
Be aware that quenching in different mediums gives you different tempers/hardening. That's it for the crash course! Blacksmithing is fun and interesting, especially the metallurgy behind it all
My life must be different than yours... I use my picks weekly as part of my job. My clients would not appreciate a bunch of destroyed locks and doors after a pentest. And... On most pickable locks, these are faster and cleaner than many destructive methods.
People in my profession know to use better locks like this to stop lockpick skiddies, but I rarely see them in professional "secure" environments.
It is different. You're a faggot and your clients are gay and dumb.
can someone recommend a good material for a handle? I would like to have a graphite or carbon plastic but not sure what to salvage it from. I would try wood but that is a little too edgy for me. metal is also heavy and harder to work with. I was even considering using an old piece of a fishing rod made from fiber glass. Any suggestions?
Yeah, a torch should work. You don't have a grinder? What have you been using to shape them so far? What about a diamond drill bit? If you are using steel that should be sufficient.
what the fuck
kid-tier tools. professional crackers simply get a metal saw and remove the lock.
I have everything just waiting for ke in my drawer, the windshield wipers/hacksaw blades, small diamond files, a lock to practice and change pins on... but god dang I have bunch o projects that I am simply procrastrinating on
Nah, generals are gay. Also this thread is already over a week old and is only 1/10th of the way to bump limit.
Better to have generals and bump old threads than to have more shitposting or bait threads that consist of nothing but stale jokes
Also, you can hide threads, you know that?
then reheat slowly from the center to the end and let air cool to temper
I have switched up my approach and now im using some Stainless Steel feeler gauge. it's perfect. I should be able to update with pics within the week.
I'm using a plastic with pre drilled holes to affix the short metal to the plastic with low profile screws, gluing it very secure with two stage overnight epoxy. The rough design will be covered up by a single layer of heat-shrink wrap.
I can't wait to have a completely custom set of lock pick tools. This hobby really settles my assberger syndrome.
I've also glued about 10 different grits of sandpaper in sequence inside of my copy of "Complete Works of Shakespeare"
This way, I can acheive a mirror finish to my liking better than any buffer or machine.
today is the day i will begin grinding my final lock picks. i will be making a bogota and a rake, as well as a few others. i will spread out probably 10 picks between .013" and .032" to make sure i always have the right size.
my main rake will probably be pretty thick and i will make very specific picks that are thinner for high security locks
i will be sanding them down incrementally and then buffing them to a mirror finish. i have shrink tube now, so i can make the handles nice and i will probably nake a custom wooden handle for at least one for practice. i need to find a good material for a wrench, but wiper blades will probably be fine. leather puch is needed too. ty for the advice
For a wrench you can use a ground down allen wrench for a tight fit
How did it turn out. Can you post pictures and some tips if I want to make something similar.
Like you have a socket next to the lock you about to cut