You'll want to build up your own logic gates by using relays and it would be probably be better / easier to make this using buttons instead of switches I'm not sure how the game would even work using light switches. Look into flip flops for holding the state of whether a certain cell should be on or off.
A simple way of thinking of the implementation is having four buttons. There are the four display lights which are driven by a T flip flop. The output of these T flip flops are all ANDed together for the "winner light." You then wire up each of the buttons to three out of the four T fliop flops. The three a button is wired to are the three cells which should toggle when you select a location to flip.
I do want to note that you will need a clock for the T flip flop. Also if a button is pressed and the clock is fired twice the cell will be toggled twice. You can fix that by using a monostable multivibrator. This design will take something like 44 relays to make so make sure you have enough of them.
Hi Tech, I'm in a basic electrical class...
Other tips that can be useful are stealing motors from old appliances or even drill motors (or just mount a plug-in drill to something secure) so you can alternate between motors or whatever - if you have sensors available to you - photocells, inductive proximity switches, etc. using those can also be enticing.
May the next great mind rise
[can't attach pics, because /tor/not-pedo, my glorious tzar country blocks 8ch]
to (OP):
man, i see you're using some shitty mobile "electronics simulator" thing, drop that! Pick a real man's NI MultiSim (better grab some 500MB "multisim portable 10.1"). From there go Ctrl+W>Search>SPDT or SPST or LED or RESISTOR_RATED. Shit is cash and helps A LOT in my analog circuitry design times. Also, what's time limit?
Back to topic question: as everyone already has pointed out:
0) use multisim for simulation [define button names for different switches to control them from your keyboard], pick 12V 1A power supply, auto light bulbs (1..2W max) or big ass visible d10mm leds (0.1W), lots of bulky ass switches;
1) a game of blackout;
2) a different variation of previous one, like only light up 1, 4 and 5th lamps (think of switches as logical "AND", "OR");
3) maybe coil power storage capabilities to create colorful sparks, protect with diodes;
4) also showcase RC-circuitry working, different times to switch on/off lamps;
5) since we're talking about circuitry calculus: EASY resistor divider for lamp (led power drop is much less visible for voltage drops, but you may go for some variables like constant current source f.e.);
6) may be showcase effects of electro-magnetic noise in uncoupled lines (like cell phone connection causing disturbances for nearby speakers or lamp spike change of intensity), grab oscilloscope;
7) showcase wires only transferring limited amount of current and heating like crazy (switches add wires to transfer more current, thus negating the effect), bring thermocouple reader or heat visor;
8) may be bring powerful wireless phone charger for those modern day cunts to stay longer?
9) ALSO! bring an "wi-fi signal amplifier", just a halved spam can, located around wi-fi router antenna and directed towards the crowd (be warned, its transmitting angle becomes less smaller, but instead power signal becomes much more powerful (about sqrt(2)).
10) from thread readings: grab a 3-pin 2-color leds (green, red, yellow if both) and go for another blackout game.
11) imagine something with general appliance mechanical timers (those found in "simple" microwave ovens or small-sized wash machines).
Generally it's almost impossible to grab attention of fags who already know about this topic, aren't curious enough or just too "badass" for such "bullshit". The only way is if you speak "their language" or are generally knowledgeable enough to speak one-on-one with a interested geek (one-on-ones are generally not advised if you wish to grab more people's attention).
Project has a 'due by' date of Nov 5, but earlier is better.
I think I've got it figured out. If I was looking at it right, this as only one set, where all the lights are off [should anyway], and it's controlled by switch 8, depending on if the other switches are set into the correct positions. So really the hidden goal is get all of the paths from switches 1 through 7 to go to 8, then to turn 8 off, but I think it effectively is the same game. It makes it so there are multiple solutions, but should still result in "Lights out" scenario.
Haven't assigned resistor values, and I adjusted the operation I wanted to accomplish. I haven't learned the Relay Logic system yet, and the resources online and linked, while very interesting, sort of befuddled me. (Bodes ill for my chosen career but I'm hoping that a more formal setting, and instruction from a dedicated instructor will help me understand it more easily.)
Thank you very much for the help, and if anything, giving me idea's of what to try, and where to go and other interesting things I can try to do. The idea of Relay logic and basic computing really interests me, but it feels a little confusing diving head first. I think this is the closing post on this thread. Thank you again for the assistance and the multitude of ideas and showcases.
I'll bring them up with the instructor, and hopefully with his help of what I want to accomplish, we can sit down and construct them and talk about the mechanism that makes it work and i'll get a better understanding, as well as a fun toy to show for it.
I'm no electrical engineer, but I don't think you're supposed to have that much space in your schematic.
You're not, but I haven't gotten to plan reading yet, and this is so I can have it spread out and see it enough to follow my tracks a lot easier. If I was doing a more professional design instead of a quick and dirty "How can I make this work" I would have it tightened up, but you're right. There is too much open space, the amount should be minimized.
You would honestly be amazed at how much empty space there was on some old diagrams. Bell has hundreds of pages of schematics which are just a set of vertical lines with the names of the two pins the connect at the top and bottom. Generally it depends on what the purpose of the schematic is, and how much the company wanted to spend on printing.
I'm always amazed by the hand drawn digrams that fit their page so perfectly. I screw things up so much using computing tools, I can't imagine the pain of getting everything right and finally drawing out the 'master copy', only to find a mistake and need to do it again.