Reloading thread

How expensive would it be to convert a 10mmsuper redhawk into 10mm magnum?

XL650 is a fine machine to use. I have it currently set up for .357 mag and fart out top tier keith loads at a stupid rate per hour. It's also finicky and needs some know how and care, but that's pretty easy to do if you're not a complete retard- you will need an alignment tool for when the polymer index ring eventually wears and you start having trouble with the auto priming tool after 5 years/20k rounds approx. Fags like apparently think it's easy to fuck up a reload WHEN THE PRESS LITERALLY ENSURES EVERYTHING IS DONE FOR YOU. You just need to stick a bullet in and ensure you do the same forward and backward stroke every single time and you will thank yourself later.
If you haven't got the admittedly large chunk of change needed for an XL650, casefeeder, alignment tool and prumer warning beeper, you can do nearly as well with a lee turret press, which is more newfag friendly and cheaper to get conversion kits for (though five times slower). Single stage presses are mostly a meme- I use one solely for 45-70, and there's a much greater risk of a double charge through that method (so you need to develop means like charge and seat bullet in the same process, then crimp after they are all done). If you have absolutely no money or space but want to have the capability to load, a lee loader hammer kit bought alongside a jewellers rubber mallet and frankford arsenal scale will mean you are able to make 60 rounds an hour whilst listening to lectures or a radio show don't do one round in one hit, do all of it in batches.

Part of the reason for maximum pressures has to do not only with bolt thrust and barrel integrity, but also whether the brass even extracts. Likely, you will get case failures and sticky extractions if your DI piston doesn't rip the brass straight out. You are probably better off building a 10mm AR with a short barrel and beating the everloving CHRIST out of what you are shooting at- but admittedly I am curious about how far you can push a rifle-built AR. If you can do it with a 9 or a 10mm you have made a monster of a pistol carbine.

Anyone have experience with reloading .30-06 7.62×63mm for metric fags

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I never clean my cases and I still get deviations within 50fps of each other. If you police your brass, there's no need to do extra shit- your loads should have the same OAL and powder charge enough to provide consistent results within that box of ammo. The same applies with cast bullets- ideally, all bullets should come from the same alloy when loaded into a lot of brass, the remainder melted and made into a new batch, even if you were to control the alloy to a T. Our difference in attitude nay be related to the fact I use rimmed, straight wall cases exclusively.
On a related note, I have found that good lube prevents a lot of fouling when using bullets with fat grooves, namely 50/50 beeswax and moly grease. Flows really nicely through a lubrisizer without heat, makes any fouling left absurdly easy to remove after a days shooting. A second favourite of mine is beeswax and boot-polish, leaves the bore real nice and shiny (fouling becomes really easy to spot).

Fuck, undoing my sage

C'mon, just go join a shooting club or something

It's joke I'm assuming.

Aye! I feel you. It's the deepest depth of the abyss of feel, isn't it?

Blyat! I broke own leg in car crash to save self from conscription, and this homosex tell me I go and join army! And joining mafia mean I actually have to work or shoot straight for to be of earning a living.

This seems like the best place to ask: In dollar terms, what kind of investment (either for a new company or an established on like Hornady) would be needed to start producing 5.45x39mm domestically with brass cases and boxer primers? What about just boxer primers, while continuing to import steel cases from Europe?