What's your opinion on that one Zig Forumsommando who usually posts in these threads about how civ polymer tents are completely unreliable and that only heavy canvas army tents and tent-ponchos are worth using in bugout situations?
Camping Supplies/Weapons
For lubing an AR, Armalite recommended automatic transmission fluid as a substitute for CLP in the 70's, and recommended 15W40 for lubricant.
…in fact, any heavy diesel oil would be awesome for lube, since a rifle is like a very slow cycling diesel piston.
Full disclosure, I haven't heavily considered bug out situations and only camp a week or two at a time, so take my words with a grain of salt.
First, about army gear: remember that it's made by the lowest builder that can meet certain requirements, not necessarily "the best." And the Army's requirements never list all criteria, most notably there's almost never a weight requirement. I'd say that argument makes sense for the lowest tier of nylon/polyester tents, like what Coleman offers. Those are only good for short trips and nothing serious, and while they may be heavier, canvas tents will far and away beat them in durability. But with more expensive civvie tents, you're getting durability that's a lot closer to canvas (but still clearly inferior, don't get me wrong), but still has the weight savings, ease of setup, waterproofing, and fabric longevity (it might rip easier, but it won't rot the way canvas does) of synthetics. Overall, I'd say canvas is good for tents that are meant for long-term use (multiple months in a single location), but if you plan on taking down and setting up repeatedly, civvie synthetics are better. A good compromise is to get a nice nylon tent like the one I posted, but use it with a canvas groundcloth to maximize the longevity of the floor, which is where you're most likely to see a tear form in your tent. Just make sure the ground cloth is a little smaller than the tent footprint. I've seen a few "hybrid" tents that are mostly nylon with a canvas floor, but none in backpacking format.
Source? That sounds like fuddlore.
Oil serves two purposes with firearms:
It's not fuddlore, you can legitimately use just about any oil for this purpose. In theory you could lubricate your firearm with a stick of butter. The issue is that not oils are created equal and some have lower burning temperatures than others (like that butter), some are more slippery, some go rancid faster than others, some will schlick out of your firearm after a couple reloads, etc. In practice if you just wanted to leave it on the shelf and mind the shelf-life of the oil you used, you could oil your gun with whatever the fuck you want. For all intents and purpose, gun-specific oil/lubricant will be better for your gun, and automobile oils will be your next best choice. This is because they're designed for rough metal parts moving around a lot/at high heats or extremely cold temperatures without gunking up. I wouldn't recommend ever using cooking oils since they tend to either burn at low temperatures which will foul up your firearm, solidify if it's not hot enough, or offer poor corrosion resistance, but in theory you could if you cleaned it properly, chose one with a high flash point/low solidifying point, and completely stripped and re-oiled your firearm every so often to prevent fouling/corrosion. The benefit of firearm lubricants is they tend to have additives that are MEANT to gunk up your gun at the microscopic level so it doesn't end up like grease on a moving rail collecting on the edges. If you're looking to lubricate then motor oil is very good. The only place motor oil fails compared to gun oil is that it's usually not meant to prevent oxidation (at the level of gun oils) since it's designed for a tight environment inside the engine where you're not supposed to have much oxygen getting in, in the first place.
Fuck forgot video related. Vegetable-based gun lube.
Is just oil good, or is it necessary to use grease of some sort on the sliding surfaces? I'm usually a "Ballistol for everything" kind of guy, which from what you've said so far sounds like enough.
I like the woodland version of that one. The clip up sides make me feel cooler.
If you're on the move a fire can be a hassle so I always bring my single burner stove. It packs up light and one canister of propane lasts forever.
web.archive.org
fromthetrenchesworldreport.com
m4carbine.net
15W40 is personal experience on F88 AuSteyr, F89 Minimi, MAG-58, and M2HB-QCB from my days back when I was in uniform years ago. Worked better than CLP on all counts, including carbon removal, especially in dusty conditions.
We were told that marine grease was recommended to use during amphib ops.
Not that I ever got to do that myself.